Goodbye to Marie Christine

Madame Gary is leaving us! Today is the last day of her Pharmacy in Esperaza.

She's been there for all of my quarter-century here and will be missed.

Gossip has it that another chemist will take over but that there'll be a long time of emptiness and confusion.

Of course the other chemist in town will be down the road though there'll be no cover (the two box and cox usually) Street talk is about buses to the Pharma in Limoux...

In the meantime, temps are 32 degrees so a picnic by the lake under the trees beckoned. My fave sandwiches of marmite, cucumber and crisps won the day but Ian preferred the tuna mayo and Bob the egg. And both drank my laboriously made gazpacho. Some of us drank Chardonnay. We had gateau from the bakery.

So, back to the diet tomorrow. Sigh.

 

We set up camp by the little steam and watched the small rainbow trout and the blue dragonflies. The lake itself was empty until later in the afternoon. 

Wish I'd taken my drawing kit - next time!

 

Esperaza shines

Couldn't resist snapping Kaye yesterday, tending the garden.

We all had a great night at Tout-la, kept poor Jean-Luc on his toes... the terrace was packed. The weather continues smashing tho meteo predicting storms for Sunday.

The roof at Erikas place is still being knocked into shape. I heard someone refer to the crane as le tour eiffel this morning. No-one knows how long it'll be there. Tourist spot perhaps.

Angels at the end

Ginette's funeral was yesterday afternoon in the Esperaza church of St Michel, a decent turn-out given she'd outlived most of her friends - thence to the graveyard where the family tomb was opened and her coffin placed inside. 

I heard Michel tell Msr Louis that his place was there, next to Ginette. I looked and indeed, the coffin was at one side with a clear space for the next. This clearly cheered the patriarch!

The funeral feast was quite lovely - Kat, Robin, me and Bob the only invitees who were not family. It did feel like a privilege. They fed us on slices of roast pork with baguette and mustard and that marvellous fruity blanquette that you're supposed to sip a little of before moving on to the red. And lemon cake made from whole lemons form their home in Menton (Grated peel. Gorgeous)

The photo, taken at the graveyard, clearly shows an angel in the sky :)
 

good weather for roofs

Probably a good idea not to visit today! The road blocked and sporadically closed by lorries that can't get through. Nicholas and Erika having their roof done, big time... that's Toby and Leos house in case you're not up to speed. Good time to do it, the forecast from tomorrow on is brill :)
 

Ginette Fernandez RIP

Love this picture of Ginette and Louis, taken some decade ago - before Ginette was struck with Alzheimer's. She died yesterday afternoon.

They were a very close couple and it was hard for Louis, so when she was moved from the care home in the cote d'azur (where their first home is) to Esperaza (to their second house, next door to us) Louis came too. They've been ensconced in the Maison de Retraite here. 

She was an active hunter/gatherer, like Louis. She shot boar and enjoyed the hunt. Her cooking was legendary, using ingredients that she'd preserved and stored. Each meal was many courses and each attendant wine impeccable. AND the singing!

Those of us lucky enough to have been feted thus often reminisce about the glory of it all; we'll never experience the like again.

Hugs to the family who are on their way here, for the funeral on Tuesday at the Church in Esperaza.

 
 

Minds still being broadened

Here we are in Montazals with Dom and Franny and a perfect day under a spreading lime tree... sensational views, profound calm and the call of the Oriole. 

An adventure too, as Esperaza was sealed off for a couple of hours to let cyclists practice going round and round at great speed. I was told that if we left at 12.00, we'd get through OK - despite giving ourselves extra time, this was not the case. 

Fortunately our knowledge of local geography and the Captains distain for legalities got us there, triumphantly.  Big thanks to our friends for being so generous with their food and conversation xxx

 

Visiting St Hilaire

Dear Lizzie Jackson gave us a summer lunch yesterday, in her house at St Hilaire. 

Travel certainly  broadens the mind :) Great food, great conversation. Thanks Lizzie xxx

Here is this mornings alarm call; the young male finding his voice.

and of course my friend the frog 

Not enough excitement?? Here are the new community compost bins, behind the church.

Ziggi is housewarmed

 Some of the guests - in no particular order -

Rushton

Maryanne

Clare, Rushton, Pete

Jo and Roy

Kaye and Norbert

John, Kaye, Janet, Ann

The Captain and Reg

Fran and Norbert

Ziggi our hostess

Clare and Mike

The video of the event, made to record the phenomenal noise of a bunch of ex-pats having a good time, is unaccountably lost. It had some sweet moments. If it turns up, will post.

Ziggi leaves this morning - has left, indeed - on her mission to take Phils ashes to Sherwood Forest. Just over a year since his death, still missed... 

Esperaza so far...

Wen is back  in St Ferriol, now with a years visa to escape the USA - 

We've had rain for a couple of days, gentle and welcome. Further south its been vicious and apocalyptic so blessings are being counted. On Monday around midday we had a magnificent flight of Vultures - some 30, wheeling over the town. Slightly ominous. I figure they are the new young being taking on a tour of their region...

Tuesday I braved the bus to Carcassonne and the rain was perfect, kept smokers off the streets and lowered car pollution so breathing was feasible. I'm experimenting with increasing my asthma drugs so some summer trips can perhaps be managed.

Yesterday Annie and Gus turned up!! Joy joy:) Pete is in Scotland, Theo and Freddy in Ireland where Annie and Gus will join them today. Such a quickie - speed gossip is becoming an art.

Finished the day at Tout-la with a bunch of the tribe, those whose health permitted. 

*Gault and Millau, a posh French gormands directory, have honoured our own Chapaire in their 2025 directory. Congratulations to them!

 

An Esperaza Sunday

 Lovely Sunday here, a classic market day in sunshine and good humour - and a vide grenier on the riverbank. Got some embroidered sheets and would have got more but they are heavy things and I couldn't carry them. 

It all seemed too pretty to stop < > with a photograph which was rather dim of me. At my evening stroll the stall holders were packing up and I snapped them instead....

Oh and the frip is open, a new shop where le healthy started out from - opposite Linares, by the bank - there was an inauguration with the mayor and l forgot to snap that historic moment. 

Here's hoping you too are having a sunny, amicable and peaceful day, wherever you are :)

Norway's National Day

As I'm sure you know, today is Norway's National day.

Katrine invited us to share her heritage and all the tribe turned up in the sunshine, to lunch in her pretty garden on smoked fish and grilled meat and salads and other delights - including this cake in the form of her national flag.

Ole-Bendik was there of course and it was highly entertaining to hear him and Katrine debate various cultural positions. They come from different parts of the islands. Friends of mine are in Norway at the moment in Lofoten and sent a video - playing the same marching band music that Katrine was playing - which apparently you will hear everywhere in Norway today. 

Gratulerer med dagen! 

 

Wednesdays gossip

Since Jean-Luc and Isobelle have closed Tout-la so they can have a holiday ( well-deserved but bah!) - the Wednesday tribe have decamped to the back of Matthieus place by the station. Very frisky. Alain who is wheelchair bound nowadays got an ovation for getting up the steps, and Mike and Roy deserve one for shifting the furniture and getting in supplies.

Ulysses is back, a brief visit from Rome to Esperaza, his favourite place - his career as an opera singer continues to dazzle. Very disappointed there were no little fried fish available.

 

Bob and Pete and Clare and I hoofed it to La Chapaire, first time for ages. Extremely nice plat du jour - a deep fried chicken leg and a sweet potato and carrot thing. They have some new extreme puddings. Mine featured Baileys and a lot of cholesterol. 

We commiserated about their recent break-in but since the malefactor is already tried and in prison, the family were quite cheerful about it. 

 

The great and the good...

There's no mistaking Ole-Bendiks immortal face, now on the cover of the catalogue for the Royal Society of Portrait Painters - many congratulations to Kenny McKendry, a richly deserved accolade! 

The only thing missing is Cleopatra. 

 

Esperaza better than the Cote d'Azure.

 Lovely market morning... it was hot, coats were shed and revelry commenced. There is a Dutch coffee- making van down by the frip and though it takes a while to get served - one man making one coffee at a time - its is sooooo worth it :) will just have to get there earlier next week. 

Many mates out, lots of tourists around already. It rained later, plus thunder.

Saturday night - when I didn't take photos - Robin (who is back) and I took apero with Michel, who usually lives at the Italian end of France on the cote d'azure . His family's second home is next door so over the years we've got to know each other. Hence I knew the power of the orange liquor which they make from their own oranges; after a tumbler of that I quit, as the menfolk opened the first of the blanquette bottles. Clearly my age is telling on me - when have I ever before turned down blanquette?? 

Msr Louis, Michels father is now ensconced in the Maison de retrait with Ginette his wife, Michels mother. Wonderful to hear stories about them all, it was like a history of France in miniature. And I finally got to ask the question; why leave a sea-side paradise on the Mediterranean to holiday in Esperaza every year? 

His answer; too many tourists! It's noisy, crowded and you can't park anywhere. Even the local graveyard gets overrun as there is a statue to Webb Ellis who is buried there. (He's the bloke who picked up a football and ran with it as a schoolboy at Rugby, thereby creating a new sport.) (Allegedly.)

The bees are back in the old chimney!! The garden has sprung into life. So excited to see them. They used to be here all the time but disappeared for several years since a major attack by the Asian Hornets. So far, no sign of the bad boys and the bees are sweeping over the elderflowers that are scenting the air, happily and noisily humming. Joy.

Peace is flowing like a river

Here's Wilhelm - a bit late, as he and Emmy left my purlieu yesterday. Missing them.

Today is the 8th of May and a holiday here, to celebrate the outbreak of peace.

I went for a prowl between times and found no-one; the place was deserted. Maybe they were all indoors waiting for a pope? Improbable...

All the little shrines were flagged and flowered; it wasn't that long ago that the place was occupied by Nazis so memories are sombre and somewhat mixed.  Best not to forget.

Thinking of not forgetting, I recall wonderful Msr Francois telling me that in the day there were two cinemas in Esperaza - one where the cafe de la gare used to be and the other in Rue des Jardins where the little park now is. He said that you'd go to work on Monday morning and find 

out who saw which movies. And the big question was, did you cry?

Here's the Mighty Aude, also on holiday.

Habemus Papam, as I expect you know by now.

 

Lovely funeral

Michael Lovelys funeral will be on Friday, May 9th, starting with a drink at 10.00am at the Lovely Chateau. There will be a procession to the cemetery at Fa where he will be buried. Dress, erm, fanciful...

Thereafter, a celebration in joy at the Cafe de Fa - all according to Michaels wishes.

Michael Lovely RIP

 

Love this picture of Michael taken on his 80th, 3 years ago...

Heard this morning that he's died: off to join his much-loved brother in some seedy heavenly joint, no doubt. He's been remarking lately that death holds no fears for him and indeed, was expecting it soon. The rest of us thought the cardiologues would pull him back but clearly, his time had come. And gone.

He will be missed. Many condolences to the Lovely tribe.

Kaye and Maryann know how to party -

Birthday girl Kaye (here between Katrine and Siggy) held a stupendous party last night. Words are failing... here's a bunch of photos:

 

Apart from the fact that the mountain of food was delicious, the bath of booze ample, the international (and local) guests amazing, apart from all that the organisation was masterly. Unobtrusive and effective. Great big thanks to all involved.

Terry and Di are wed

 Di married Terry in blighty a week or so ago so the Rushtons held an enactment for the locals...

Cat and Andy from Granes

In classic Rushton fashion, bangers and mash were served but done really properly, coiled and skewered and onion gravied. It was rather hasty for us - Pete and Clare, Bob and I - because Bob and Clare had a plane to catch and were anxious about it. They caught it but  we had to leave a very agreeable party early, alas.

Delighted to meet Cat and Andy who are from my part of London; we knew all the pubs between us, most of which have been turned into apartments for the rich.

*Rather grim news from Guillaume Galeotti who runs the Chapaire restaurant. He and the family had just re-opened after their much-merited holiday but were alerted  last night by their security system alarm. Found a young man had broken in and was robbing the till. The family held him until the police arrived - 25mins later! No fun. And no violence used. This is the second time they've been targeted, hence the security system.

Hugs to them.