A fond farewell

 Friends gathered to raise a glass to Michael Bosworth yesterday, at the Auberge du Faby in Rouvenac. Next door to Michael and Barbaras' home. Hard to believe he won't be sitting at that window again.

Barbara talked a little about her husbands' wishes, no speeches, just a drink and a chatter - but Ole-Bendik, who has spent a long life being exempt from every rule, gave a most moving and eloquent address about friendship and care. 

Many old mates there and many opportunities to swap tales about Michael, art and life in the Languedoc.  And we were treated to a musical performance...

The only thing missing was Michael though I'm bound to say that I felt his presence most keenly-

message from the leader

Heres an AI translation of a letter from our mayor which he posted on facebook.... for your information. Ex pats who haven't been nationalised still can't vote, despite our chunky taxes.  Don't start me.

Hello everyone.

The dates of the next municipal elections have been communicated.

We are returning from September 1st in the pre-election period. This has an impact on the communication of our municipality and the press, which must no longer put the mayor in the spotlight, so as not to influence public opinion.

In any case, and whatever the results of the next municipal elections, you should know that I would have taken real pleasure in working, for all of you, supported by our council and our municipal teams who love their village.

The adventure does not end there for me because, as you know, I am running for a 2nd term.

I simply wish to be able to finalize the many files in progress. It was a very difficult mandate, we came out of it stronger and much stronger.

For my part, I have worked tirelessly, listening to you, at your side and often anticipating your wishes.

I wish to carry out one more mandate to ensure your safety, your well-being and to prove that no one is bound to the impossible.

I am and will remain a child of our beautiful Espéraza who simply wishes to give it back its letters of nobility and make it, as before, a city where life is good, a country of love and beautiful songs.

I could talk to you about it for hours, but I'll leave it at that.

Friendly.

Christian SOULA.

before the rain

 ...we went to the church at Fa, where James Kline was playing his interesting guitar. 

The little church is rarely open so it was thrilling for me to see it and its references to Ezekiel...

and we got home just before the rain hit. Steady flow for most of the night, hurrah.

Esperaza news is bit harrowing. The cafe du Pont is being abandoned soon, they say in the street - no-one has turned up to take it over and Erika is off. Whilst bewailing this, Msr Linares announced that he'll be closing his newsagents in November. No takers. Place will be a dessert soon - PLEASE, shop locally as much as you can. 

weekendery

Behold, Clare!! She and Fran produced a wonderful meal by their pool on Saturday night, in the gentle heat, under the Herons' flightpath... for us and  Mike and Kat.

We had an iced soup which I'm not writing about because I hope to copy and surprise guests with it later - then chicken with dates and memorable roasted vedg (carrots in harriso) , cheeses and apricot tart. We were all most appreciative.  

Strange picture of Fran below. Not as weird as some of the other pix. 

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Market was better than usual, the smoking ban hasn't actually hit but seemed less unpleasant. Warm without being orribly hot. 

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In the evening we went to Alet les Bains where music was on the menu...

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Thence to dinner at - yes!! -- the creperie, where Nightingale was back in thrall! 

Needless to say, we are happy but exhausted

Hotter again

Look very very closely and you'll see the kingfisher waiting for supper last night. Went for an evening stroll with Ian and the critter was posing on a fallen tree under the bridge. Got lots of useless photos, bah, then s/he flew to the base of the old bridge and sat there trying to help. Really must try and get the phone camera working properly. 

And today, yah!! Pete 'n' Nel came to coffee. Still not got the focus right. Jolly nice to see them anyway :)

Anyone out there into football? Esperaza has a team and they need players, trainers, admin people and general support. One of the towns' policepersons, Samuel, is president so contact him if you'd like to be involved.

 

cold and wet hurrah

Great to see the towns' heron this morning, not seen her/him for a while... still not a great deal of water in the Aude but some, and fast flowing. It continues to rain, though not heavily. Such a relief.

And here is the immortal Ole-Bendik last night, outside the Tout-la bar. It was cold. Jean-Luc got a round of applause when he brought a blanket to wrap our sage in. He is doing his modern take of King Lear.

 

apres le deluge

 Heavy and continuous rain last night and now light drizzle... fabulous! Not made much difference to the Aude yet.

Mustn't moan though, given that a lot of France is on alert for flooding. Out of the frying pan into the basin. 

Keep forgetting to take photos of friends - saw Claudine yesterday, Edith and Daniel, Mike, Rose and others today. Kats back from the Ariege. No evidence, you'll just have to trust me.

cooler weather, allelujia

Last nights' really scary sunset - mad orange with rays and shimmery details which don't show in the photo. Thought the end was nigh. And today its cloudy and cool and slightly breezy, delightful.

First time I've been able to walk around in months. Loved it. Remembered why Esperaza is so beguiling.

Also met many friends and have learnt more medical details than were perhaps necessary...

good luck to the afflicted.

This is attached to the MJC this morning, looks useful -

 

another lovely day...

 ... just too hot! Just done a trot round the market and safely home, no chance of getting to the Vide Grenier. Second one I've missed, alas. Let's just hope the unknown medieval manuscript I've been expecting will still be around in the autumn.

Fed Jamsie, Guillaume and Masher last night. Jamsie bought his vichyssoise, excellent - and the cremant de limoux - I made the parmigiana from aubergines grown by Bob and over-roasted some bits of organic chicken which were barely edible. The hand-crafted whiskey trifle made up for it IMHO. 

Esperaza continues to surprise and delight. Look what's next:

When I started living here there was a bicycle repair shop just over the old bridge, wonderful; then it relocated to the shop by Intermarche, which meant getting someone to drive it there. A visitor broke its brakes. It's tyres are flat. No idea if I can still cycle but prepared to give it whirl... plan to be first in the queue when it opens.

Market on Thursdays in Esperaza, the hat festival and the guitar concerts

Shopping in the market this morning l naturally visited l'Amaranthe and was struck at how underused it is. You may not know; its a co-operative but you don't have to be a member to shop there, (though its cheap enough to join and receive discounts) and its staffed by jolly volunteers some of whom speak English. The point is that they sell fresh vedg., grown locally and organically. No  pesticides. And has all that useful stuff that health-food stores sell but you don't have to drive miles to get it. It's open during market hours.

 Looking ahead now - here's the much anticipated hat festival, lots going on including free entry to the hat museum. 

And here's the guitar concerts throughout the place for August.

RIP Michael Bosworth - d. 11.08.2025

 Michael died yesterday morning attended by Barbara and their daughter Mair, in Carcassonne hospital. I'm unusually tongue-tied; finger-stuck?  It was all too quick -

We all knew that Michael had been diagnosed with Parkinsons but also that he was doing rather well. He was full of praise for the good Dr Levy and juggled his medications, trying for the sweet spot of comfort and capacity for work. I last heard from him on the 3rd when he was going to Carcassonne for a diagnosis; ' already know its almost certainly stomach cancer'. It will be, he wrote 'interesting' to see what treatment would be suggested.

In the event, they kept him in palliative care. By the mercy of a benevolent angel, his daughter and her partner Kwojo were in France and could be with him. Barbara was given a bed so she could stay with him. She and Michael were totally intertwined - to say they were a devoted couple is inadequate,  they were one soul. Though with enough differences to form a creative and dynamic life together. Loved being in their company.

We played chess daily in the covid years, on the computer, He was a far far better player than me - so his patience was evident. (He called it 'slow chess'!)

Michael was a writer, a playwright, a painter, a printmaker and a dazzling conversationalist, informed and knowledgeable and aware. Fabulously well travelled. 

In the last few years we'd taken to dining out together,  to share the occasional treat by testing restaurants and menus. My cooking is unreliable and theirs, always impeccable, involved stairs - so it seemed highly sensible. So happy we'd had those times. They stopped when Michael's sense of taste disappeared into a gun-metal homogeny, but the authentic Tibetan cooking down the road cheered him.

Barbara has written that she is sorry for our loss and thinking of that I realise which Esperazannaze will also be bereft. His friendships were deep and loving. He wasn't sociable, preferring conversation on a one-to-one basis, so they were generally profound. So, especially sad for John and Janet - who initially introduced us - and Ole-Bendik, who studied under the same professors at Bristol University (though not at the same time.) There are others. They know who they are.

I spoke with O-B on Sunday and  he said that if Michael died, he'd have no-one to talk to. Feel much the same.

Massive love to Barbara. 

 

goodbye all!

Family two nights ago at a farewell dinner, thanks to Reuben and his amazing curry - some of them went on Monday and the remainder went either to last nights' market or the Tibetans in Quillan. Now they've all pushed off as have our neighbours from the Cote d'Azure. It's going to be quiet hereabouts.
 

Long and happy life....

 ...Here's our friend and neighbour Msr Louis, celebrating his 95th birthday. He remains a force of nature. We ate, drank and sang immoderately but well.

There are other photos but I'm saving them for blackmailing purposes. 

It was a very good meal, organised by Michel with Guillaume; an apero on entry, salade gesiers,  canarde parmentier, cheese, birthday cake made by the family with their own Menton lemons.

Now Toby has gone, off with Rose to Ireland to visit the Matthews tribe.

Spare a thought for my family today - my sister-in-law Mel (wife to my brother Matt and mother of Tom, Holly and Paddy Beer) died yesterday morning. She was in a hospice, surrounded by her family. By all accounts, an admirable death though too soon. 

   Now begin the long days without her. 

We are that age. I am emboldened to write my favourite prayer, for all in the same situation:

May those in pain know their suffering shall not last and find comfort and relief. 

May those who feel the weight of burdens and the solitude in which they bear them know that they are not alone, only detached temporarily from the oneness which has never left them, and find comfort and relief.

May all who find their circumstances difficult and trying be assured that these things too shall pass, and find comfort and relief.

May great love and compassion be visited on all beings.

Hugs all round.  Its insanely hot here, too hot for me to go to the vide grenier by the river; a first I think. Think hydration, think shade. 

 

more feasting

Here are the family again, not starving - after a day at the lake eating at le Chapaire is a blessing! 

Bob and I will be there again shortly today for Msr Louis 95th birthday celebrations. Full report looming...
 

poulet bicyclette

 The tribe at the lake at St Ferriol last night - Sebastian and his brother and their staff were flat out with a full terrace. Heroes! 

The Corbieres fire continues, alas, fuelled by the winds. We can no longer access the coast easily due to the road closures. The firemen struggle on - we are safe in Esperaza but distressed, the knock-on from the loss of bird and wildlife will stay with us. Sad for the people who have been dispossessed and for the holiday campers who are finishing their holidays in various municipal buildings.

Stay safe, y'all.

summer hols in Esperaza

Toby is back in town!! Just till Sunday when she and Rose take off somewhere else. 

Harris's abound - here's Charlie, who has broken an ankle but still coping...

and her grandfather John. There are others. No doubt photos later. 

Very good evening here last night; melon and basil and tomato salad, 2 poached salmon (we were ten) with new potatoes from the garden and  carrots from the 8a8; and trifle, made with Pimms and tinned fruit and proper jelly I bought in the UK. All disappeared.

The tribe are off at the Puivert lake while I don't do the things I should be doing...

 

Hot in Esperaza

Went to the church on candle lighting duty, god-bothering on behalf of sick friends, and was struck anew by the contemporary feel of the 15th century décor. Some have been restored but the  original bits are obvious. 

The younger Harris's have arrived, the older due today. Ziggy fed us all last night, photos rather disappointing except for Hannah. Pity about her dad.

Interesting talk with the young ones about the UK lowering of the age of voting. They fear this will lead to a Farrage government despite their own high levels of resistance. Are all (other) 16 year olds morons? It would seem so... 

 

Thinking of future signs, here's the new Le Healthy.

Home again in Esperaza

Been away for ages, it seems, but now - 

got back on Friday, knackered, long 2 day drive by Bobs patient and tolerant nephew Richard. His wife Lynne and the kids Charlie, Hannah and William arrive tomorrow, his Dad John and partner Jean on Tuesday. 

So far, fed at the Chapaire (which has been upgraded since their inclusion to the French equivalent of the Good Food Guide) and very nice too though who are all these strangers eating there??

Saturday was lunch at the Grand Café in Limoux with Lizzie Jackson - terrific food - tartare of St Jacques and something I've forgotten. And nougat glace. After my diet in England, health food. 

Then tea with Andy and Lou, yea, they are on holiday here for a little longer so more of them anon. In fact bumped into them in the market this morning. It was crowded and quite confusing but as ever, gorgeous.

 

England was OK. Weirdly, the London air is easier to breath than the Esperaza pollution haze - when will we have exhaust controls?

 I went to York - too many tourists - but enjoyed my nephew Toms marriage to Martha (heart heart). A wretched illness has attacked Toms mother Mel which is a cause of grief to the family. Such is life, it seems. 

Parrots are well, fish are well, Bob OK :)