Aude flow

 The mighty Aude, this morning - still flowing - much like life in Esperaza where all is quiet. as far as l know :)

hotness continues

 Despite the heat - which is extreme - the Tour de France came and went. I followed on the TV. Here they are, whizzing by the Caderonne and not passing down to the town;

Things go mysteriously wrong or at least they are not as they are in pre-heat-wave times. Todays appointment with Orange, for example, long standing and carefully arranged, was cancelled last night by text. To quote them (in translation), the rendezvous 'will not be honoured'. Can't blame them, of course.

Many old friends will remember when Larry and Barbara Jackson joined us here, centuries ago now ... Barbara has written from Southern California sending love to all. Some disturbing news; she pressed a wrong pedal and drove into a Magnolia, which is undamaged - her car however is not and at 94 she's decided to cease driving. The logistics of life are now complicated, and we all wish her well with that -

We continue to be sensible, only outdoors early morning and evenings which are very pleasant. Here's the town Heron looking a bit scrawny - otherwise not much going on with the wildlife either.

hot, hotter, hottest

Another birthday has floated past, still alive - and here's Peter Dunns image of me and the captain to prove it! 

Had a lovely time and am so touched by the attention I get and do not merit. 

Esperaza continues hot but not as hot as it might be. Further south there are huge and scary fires, fanned by the winds; evacuations being shown on the breakfast TV, harrowing all round. The quality of the air is a problem and of course we are all fretting for the wildlife that can't escape the flames.

Forecast projects that temperatures will continue to rise. Stay safe, y'all. Close windows and shutters, dim lights, give up all pretentions to work.
 

Seize it seize it

 Dear Claudine framed up this photo of us both in a London pub in 2008 - remember many highlights of that trip- this morning was more sedate as we had coffee at the station bar and considered managing age.

Which we both do v well, BTW.

Weds evening, Peter Dunn, Bob and I ate at La Chapaire - as did many other people. Still good, still reliable. Worth noting!

Info: The strange fruit I asked your help to identify is called an Empress or Paulownia tree, native to east Asia/China (Michael and Barbara had an avenue of them near them their home close to Delhi)

And yet more info: The T de Fr goes across the top road, not through the village; so cushions and chairs to the fore if its not too hot.  The roads will be closed, public transport deranged. If you're expecting to take a bus anywhere, check first. 

Lovely warm and windy weather here, the  more pleasurable as it's really not going to last. A huge heatwave awaits us. Seize the day!

Tuesdays lunch

 Lunched some friends yesterday - Margaret, John, Barbara and Jim - photos dreadful except this of Jim.

Was rather pleased with myself in that most of the food was edible though had to enlist Margaret for help with some of it and John to carve the lamb- and credit for the salad is entirely due to Barbara.

Here's a treat in view  when the T de F will go whizzing past the front door or possibly across the top road - not sure where the D118 actually is. Will find out. 

summer season begins

 

The mayor Msr Soula and representatives from the council of the region (sorry, didn't catch their names) gave speeches to kick off the season - and there's Guillame in the background, who put it all together. He runs two of the towns restaurants and still manages to assemble this weekly event with bands and food and drink... hero!!

Father Matthews checks things out - (sorry John, but I love the photo)

Regina and Ziggy - both born in Frankfurt - and another of Reg

We went early, ate Ziads delicious Lebanese food, said a brief hello to a few mates and left before the real crowds arrived and the music started. The smoking is what drives me away but next week, if its not too hot, will mask up and try to stay longer - such a privilege to share tables with an entire village, and their friends :) Yes, after the downpour, I've become sentimental - 

cleanup

 I went walking yesterday in a moment of coolness, under these clouds - and made it home just before the storm broke. Glorious and fierce with large hailstones. 

Which means tonights night market will be perfect!! See y'all there :)

mild market

The market is muggy with a merciful breeze - I was out early but still, few punters! All of whom are praying for a storm.

As I wrote that, the sun came out again. Sigh.
 

heat stops play

Not really equipped to do much except paint - just about made possible by a little aircon unit that grumbles and rattles on, for which I'm very grateful. 

Anyone know what this tree is? It had lovely blossoms and now has these weird things... 

that's it really though I did run into a group of friends this morning, coming and going, hither and yon. Younger than me, for sure!

 

waiting for the end

Here are Terry and Di and Tango, yesterdays visitors - 

Terry and Di were en route to collect Bob from the airport and I'm relieved that he's safely back. The parrot lives here. 

Work goes on in the square, hindered of course by people watching and needing a chat. Only the early birds though - temperatures are really inhospitable. Stay cool indoors. 

 

and the heat goes on...

Not reporting much as there's really nothing to report in my corner of life - early morning walks, late evening if there's any energy left - found this strange sign on a panel by the river, what can it all mean??

 This being Sunday I should be hurrying to the market before the heat kicks in. There's a vide grenier by the river - no chance!!

Though if an unexpected spurt of energy kicks in, who knows?? 

Keep drinking water out there. Government health warnings say alcohol banned in this weekends music festivals.

HOME

 I'm back in Esperaza with a huge sigh of relief - though travel does do something for the mind, especially travelling by public transport where people can't get away from you. Met a group from Uzbekistan (who could only talk through an interpreter) who were charming and thoughtful and a man from Eritrea, who undertook to educate me about his country and Islam.  Long train journeys plus long bus rides (= East Midlands to York) -and of course the plane flight- have given me enough info to fuel my thinking for weeks.

So what's new here??

Early morning, before the real heat, strange doings in the square - it seems that they are pulling away the paving around our trees to give them some space, and filling in the gaps with this dubious gravel.

Guessing the benches will be back soon - maybe they already are, too hot to go and look.

Had breakfast with some friends this morning. Its a relief to find that not a lot is going on!

Aftermath

 

Tottering about after the market yesterday I was shocked, alarmed and etc to find that half of the seats in the square were no more - they've been removed. Is this a plot to stop the elderly gathering to create insurrection? Place looks naked without them. 

It was a good market, of course. Sunshine, music, friendship... which makes it hard to leave, a close family death has catapulted me to England to be with my tribe. Back in a week by which time I hope our seats will be restored to us.

tomorrows excitement

if you've nothing else on, this would be a useful afternoon trip - obviously we want the old train between Quillan and Limoux back and it would be good know what the SNCF is planning for us.

 

Don Tait exhibition and a guinguette visit

 Here's Don at his vernissage this evening - filling up with art lovers as Bob and l shimmied off somewhat early, being old. He is selling!! Delicate, ethereal drawings full of a sense of space and of the reality of plien air, plus acrylics and oils he has worked up from the drawings. Would have been nice to have stayed, especially as many mates were milling about the bar :) The show is on for a week, at Alet-les-bains.

Half way home we realised that hunger and thirst had kicked in. Remembered hearing about le ventriloque,* down a track between Intermarche and Arcadie. Keep going past the lorrys and the old cars and there on a little mound is a guinguette, a wooden shack selling rather good nosh, drinks and all that. Set by the river, comfy old furniture, friendly staff...

They play marvelous music too... it took an age to make our food, hurrah! We sat in comfort and enjoyed it all. They don't close until 10.00pm. We had to leave for parrot care or we'd still be there but we'll get back for an evening sometime. Literary chums; there is a  poetry and story telling evening (in French) on Saturday night

*This is a joke, it seems. Ventriloque is french for ventriloquist but also means a  rumbling tummy.

 

Thursdays frolics

Happy start to the day with Claudine, back from her month away in a health-giving place, being exercised and massaged and generally given a good seeing-to. Looking great on it. 

The Thursday market had no vedg stall, quelle horreur, but mercifully didn't need any since we'd arranged to eat Tibetan takeaway with Barbara...

had a feast!

Hadn't seen Barbara since the exhibition she put on as a tribute show for Michael, where I bagged a little painting of his-

and here is Tango inspecting it!

 

sun - heat wave in May

 Its official, a Canicule - and the first warnings ever in the month of May. Breakfast TV very excited. 

Heaven knows what summer will be like but for the moment this is paradisical.

Festival des hermits

If you go down to the market today, prepare to be approached by young men wearing nighties, bowler 

hats and a black eye. Don't ask... just give them some money and enjoy whatever is going on. There's a brass band involved.

Jolly hot! Very pleasant morning and night,  siesta midday of course.

And here's an exciting diary date...

We went to the lake yesterday, Quillan St Bertrand, and flogged up to the little lovely cafe there which their website erroneously announced as open... permanently closed is what they meant to say and forgot. Sigh. 

Wandered into Carrefour, bought an enticing bunch of sandwiches and headed to Bob's garden by the river-

magic! Over the years many hands (starting with Ryan and Alecia) have converted a scrubby hectare into an orchard and vegetable garden of calm and beauty. Enhanced by the call of the golden oriels.

 

Bon V O-B

Here's Ole-Bendik yesterday evening, bracing himself for his trip to Norway today. He wants to be there, is looking forward to it, but travel for the aged is hard and he is more aged than most. Bon voyage!!

In the same walk found Marie Ann and Kaye newly returned from travelling and staying in Esperaza for a month,  bringing this fabulous weather with them. It's hot but we are blessed with gentle breezes....

Took breakfast in the Argentinian cafe yesterday where it is possible to sit outside and avoid smokers, joy joy -and read the town info panel. Here's our next BIG vide grenier - 14th June, might be snowing by then:)

 

Louis Fernandez RIP

Dear Msr Louis died this afternoon - a year to the day after his beloved Ginette. His health had taken a dive and Michel went with him to Carcassonne hospital in the early hours, not expecting him to make it through the night. He held on for a few extra hours but has been anxious for the off for a week or so, and off he's gone. 

Feel very privileged to have known him and his family.

Funeral on Tuesday starting in the church, 16 .30 h , thence to the family tomb in the graveyard.
 

away they go!

 

Norwegfranco

Yesterday was Norway's National day and Katrine made a superb cake - and was good enough to bring it round for Bobs family. Hurrah for Norway, we say :)

Market blossomed in the lovely weather, felt vicariously proud of it all.  

Everyone goes today - John, Jean, Maddy and Grace - a great silence will descend.
 

Family Snaps

 

Last night in dull weather at the Poulet en Velo; Sebastien had the foresight to erect a tent for the dinners by the lake. We were all exhausted from the Artistes a Suivre tour round Puivert, Chalabre and Rivel though not as exhausted as Caroze whom l met this morning and who did the same tour - on a bicycle! 

We lunched at Chalabre, an agreeable place Ive forgotten the name of - and Rushton came too, he was wandering about the exhibits as we were.

Below is the church at Rivel, what a cute village - never been before - where they have a statue of saint Anne teaching the virgin to read, my favorite Catholic theme. Probably the only one where women are encouraged to be other than mother, martyr or shepherdess; though you have to be preparing to be the mother of god, of course.

Was taken by the photos of Bruno Wagner in the church, splendidly weird stuff - indeed many of the shows were interesting, but I kept bumping into friends and not taking photos.

Well done to  the artists and organisers of the AaS, they are most able and competent. Impressed too by the numbers of visitors. And -YES- I bought a painting!! 

Photo when its in the house. Really excited :)