March 4, 2026

not a war zone


 Here is Esperaza's 8 a 8 being gutted, extended, re-powered, re-built - dreadful impact on the village and especially me! No-one to chatter to on the croissant run, except the other lost souls bewailing its absence.

We just have to cope, sigh.

In the meantime Siggy has offered lifts to Intermarche to anyone carless, she visits most days and is happy to run people there. Cheers!

We saw Siggy and her daughter Laura last night when we ate together at La Chapaire; and before that had a visit from Regina who has been released into the wild after her heart attack. Given her youth and fitness, this was a shocking event for us all and no doubt for Regina too. But she's recovering :) Allelujia.

March 3, 2026

Hols by the sea

 Bob and I had a touch of cabin fever and decided to quell our restlessness with a 2 bus trip to Collioure. Roped in the neighbours to take on parrot care and took off early Monday. The Perpignan bus leaves from Quillan at 8.20am and we were on it - to RDV at the Centre of the World with the Collioure bus and arrive in time for lunch.

In sight of the sea.

I'd booked us into the little hotel of the Templars, the one covered in original and exciting paintings from the turn of the last century to the 1960's, and loved it. 

Of course, it was out of season so all the staff everywhere were cheery and happy to chatter. Recommend avoiding summer, its hell there; just ask the staff!

We ate massively and pottered gently, early nighted -

- and first thing in the morning went back to the  beach, thinking we'd be alone, to find a large and growing reception.
Faces painted in camouflage, some running about with guns (hopefully unreal ones), lots of very fit young persons clearly training for the onerous task of protection.

That and the changing weather made it easier to come home - 10.30 bus after hotel breakfast in their lovely bar (more paintings) which got us to Perpignan with 10 mins to spare for the Quillan bus. These trips incidentally now cost 2 euros each. 

-----Mustn't moan about price increases, its still fabulous value. 

Now back. Parrots sulking.

February 28, 2026

LIfe goes on...

...in a time of war, we are concerned but helpless. Got ideas though! And shared many of them last night with John and Margaret, Gert and Elsbeth. As ever, enjoyed their company hugely. 

 

Art resurgence

 Hadn't planned to go to last nights' vernissage since it was in Quillan and I don't drive, but a last minute offer revolutionised my thinking...

An American artist called Dave has opened the old boulangerie as a gallery and studio - not sure if it has a name yet - and he exhibited a handful works by his students. I'd forgotten how much fun a group of artists could be :) 








Dave put on a very good spread with lashings of blanquette. He has interesting plans for the gallery, involving trying to establish an art audience to appreciate the many artists of these parts. Life drawing is a pivotal part of his plans; drop in on him at 6, Rue de la mairie for all info. if you fancy it.


February 26, 2026

Esperaza news on Thursday

 Our neighbour Michell is here for a week from the Cote d'azure, bearing oranges and lemons from his orchard in Menton...

Also arrived are Margaret and John - in fine fettle - and Gert and Elsbeth, not yet spotted but here somewhere. You can tell its spring :)
The bad news is that the 8a8 will be closing for three weeks from Sunday. It's being made bigger and smarter and though I keep telling them its alright as it is, they will insist on change. Bah.
If you are one of the many who have their parcels delivered there, you'll have to go to Couiza - ring 0468 74 09 10 for info. 

February 23, 2026

RIP Frank Dunnett. d.20 02 2026

Frank left Esperaza with his (then) wife Liz in 2019, deaf to our pleas to get them to stay- 
they were a delight to be around and we shared many a meal, many an interesting conversation, many a merry evening.

Frank had the sweetest manners; we all know that Esperaza is the safest place one can imagine but he would insist on walking me home after many a riotous party. He and Liz were most kind to my appalling dog Lily too, knowing I was a vegetarian they'd keep bones for her. She adored Frank!

I visited them in the UK... here they are in Bexhill-on-Sea, where they'd relocated. Frank was a member of the yacht club and of course maintained his golf obsessions. He was well-known in Esperaza as the man who bought his wife a golf club he wanted for christmas. She didn't play.

Their divorce was a sadness but after 40-something years - and diverging interests - it arrived. 

Liz rang me today with the news of his passing and instructed me to let his old friends know.

                                                   All the best to her and to Franks family. 
 

Sun set last night

-not only beautiful but there were bats! Perhaps this endless winter has finally moved on. 
 

February 22, 2026

Early market


 Thick mist!! It'll be cleared, no doubt, when I go back for round #2 Below is Ruben, preparing our lunch. He's simultaneously hosting breakfast for the other stall holders, they take it in turns - wine, bread, cheese, pate. That's why they're always so cheerful :)



February 19, 2026

Day off in Carcassonne

 Most of France appears to be underwater which we've been spared. 

Again today, wind and rain.... so glad yesterday was sunny and hot because yesterday I bunked off with Rushton to the the Gallery of Contemporary Art in Carcassonne. We had a comfortable and ungormande lunch in the Place Gambeta and then tottered off to the show.


Here are the international artists showing a bit of work apiece, all of them new to me.

The work looked mostly familiar though, developing familiar themes... nice nonetheless.

One installation alone had an impact on me. By Yoann Ximenes and called Mantras, the artist had taken significant speeches from these times (and before), taken a copy of their soundwave patterns and translated that into hanging pieces, most ingeniously (layered circles of polystyrene), surprisingly beautiful.

 In case we missed the point, the actual speeches were broadcast in the gallery. Happy time trying to match speech to vision which made me suspect they were not an actual copy -  I've always been a pedant. Still worked as a sculpture and idea IMHO.
Speeches by Mandela, Churchill, Obama, de Gaulle,  Allende, Guevarra and the like - sound bites rather than speeches actually but enough -

Entry free, staff sweet, beautiful building (ex-monastery and old bank) Well worth a visit.


PS just had a visit from a neighbour who has a friend who is having a vide maison, since his ma has gone into the maison de retrait. Forgot my camera! If you are yours are looking for good solid French furniture or any number of dinner services, lamps and so forth, you could do worse that contact Tim who is managing it for the family. Message Timothy Price on Fb.




February 15, 2026

consolations of a wet sunday

Not a lot of stalls in the market, what with impending rain and a bit of wind - hardly a patch on what we had been led to expect - Rushton and I had arranged to meet and were joined by Louise and Pete, below, and then Norbert... Nel is in recovery from her last treatment but doing fine.
Got home, where Pete was entertaining Bob... and offering a blessing :)
Water level of river down from yesterday and though the sky is grey, urgh, all is manageable. 




 

February 14, 2026

The rising Aude

 

Despite the flood alerts, the mighty Aude is only teasing...

Rain is forecast for the next WEEK! 
But as international world-famous traveller Max Johnson has been heard to remark, there is no such thing as bad weather - only inappropriate clothing. Dig out those wellies.

Forgot to photograph Thursday night which was brill, starting at the café du Pont  and evolving to La Chapaire where some of us had chicken in chestnut cream sauce, fantastic! What will they think of next. 
Discovered that the new tea and plant shop in Rue Gambetta (opposite the temporally defunct tout-la) does amazing cake, BTW. Recommended.

Erm... that's it. Enjoy the quiet.

February 12, 2026

esperaza red alert




 Poor old Heron having a hard time this morning - fast flowing water and a fierce wind, which blew it backwards when s/he tried to cross the river.

Apart from that... no trains between Carcassonne and Limoux until the fallen trees have been cleared (I daresay they'll be running buses...)

We're still on the reddest of alerts, which means all the emergency services are paying attention.


-erm, the sun has just come out!


February 11, 2026

attention weather...

Us locals have all been sent a weather alert from the town hall.. stay in, close shutters, don't leave cars by the river or under trees. Stay prudent. 
Its only spotting with rain now and seems quite pleasant but no doubt the fan will be hit soon. 
Took this snap this morning, showing that the river had a way to go before it breaks the bank.
Apart from that, the plane trees opposite the cafe du Pont are having a radical trim.




 

February 10, 2026

Overnight guest

 Look who turned up - en route to Africa - yup, Zoe! Trailing hardly any chaos.

good luck with the trip, hope the plans work out OK

February 8, 2026

Birthday lunch

 


The Captains birthday, which would have been a lot better if he hadn't been crippled by painful gout. Poor chap; though he was largely off his head on painkillers.

Ziggy made the chocolate and banana vegan cake. Bananas, not chips, on top.
 The guests are waving at Regina who has not fully recovered her health after a sudden hospitalisation, so is absent - 
Given the circumstances, it went well :)
The topic of health was unavoidable but we moved speedily onto spooky stories of unexplained miracles. A new and cheery focus.



February 7, 2026

Yesterdays funerals

Leaving the graveyard at Rennes-le-Chateau after Russell Coopers burial yesterday- beautiful photo by Suzie, as is the one below which shows the spectacular view up there. Couldn't get there but many many people did. Russell carved spaces in all our lives.

And a little farewell to Bill Norris, with Tia his daughter, Saveria and Sebastien, Juno, Guy and me... and Bill on the table :) Which he'd have loved -






 

February 6, 2026

Get knitting

Ria is establishing a creative group -! Grab your needles and get down there 


Tricoter, crocheter, coudre ensemble c’est relaxant, amusant, convivial et enrichissant.

 Envie de nous rejoindre ?

 Tous les lundis après-midi de 14h à 16h30.

 24, Avenue de la gare Espéraza 

 Apportez simplement votre bonne humeur et votre matériel de loisirs créatifs.

February 5, 2026

Market thrills

Blown away by this little van library arriving at the market today - thoroughly agreeable librarian with but a handful of English books and they theological or generally esoteric. Bliss! He'll be doing the Sunday market too...
and here's Nightingale, hurrah, back in the creperie and as lovely as ever!
The Capt and I ate there last night and v good it was too - 

Here, below, is yesterdays sunrise. significant especially for the strange glowing thing on the bank (right side) Any ideas? Bob thinks plastic bag. He's wrong.


Tomorrow is Russell's funeral.
Also tomorrow Tia, daughter of Bill Norris, will be at the Pont from 17H so we can share memories of Bill over a glass of wine.
Bonne courage tous.


 

February 2, 2026

RIP Russell Cooper

 Rachel, Russells daughter, has announced that her father has died. Lifted this photo of him from her Fb page - obviously captivated by his grandchild. Many condolences to Pat, his wife, and all the family.

He and Pat turned up at my studio in 2003, on the occasion of the first Chemin des Artists (the precursor of Artists a Suivre) I thought he was French and he said he often forgot what nationality he was. 

He was long established here then, a carpenter by training and living in commune at Lavaldieu. Pat and he gradually took over the place, farming, breeding horses - his parents Jill and Tony turned up in Esperaza in the fullness, followed by his sister Sian. Quite a dynasty, which have all preceded him; he'll find a noisy welcome in heaven :) 

There'll be a send off starting at Lavaldieu on Friday at 10.00. and thereafter at the cemetery at Rennes-le-chateau. Rachel says to be aware that parking will be a problem and to think of car sharing, and to bring a bottle and some food to share. If you would like to speak during the event, please contact Rachel -

Russells impact on the area was huge and his legacy will outlive us all. I'm strangely lost for words when I think of his life and times... hugs all round.



Kat and the fish

Our Kats back - been doing culture in London with Roland for the last week. Here she is in the market on Sunday, a sunny and sociable day for many of us  :)
Weather clearly getting better - here are the fish that live in Annie and Petes old bath, rising to eat for the first time in months.

 

January 28, 2026

Bill Norris RIP d. 26 Jan 2026

It's cheeky of me to write an obit for Bill since I barely knew him - but knowing him ( a little) its not altogether inappropriate...
Everyone who did know him talks of him with great affection and it would be difficult not to, his evident qualities shining out. The word Gentleman gets bandied about, terribly polite with a most mellifluous voice; even when he'd forgotten who you were and what you were doing there he was charming. He felt like an old friend as soon as you met.

I got into contact with him late in life when his daughter asked me to drop by and play chess with him. Always on the look out for a game, it is possible to pop into the Maison de retrait where he was ensconced at any time after 11.00, avoiding meal times.  It became a quiet retreat for me, a shelter from the hurly burly :)
Here's a bit of online biography :

William (Bill) Norris spent more than ten years working for various newspapers in England and Africa before his appointment as Parliamentary Correspondent to the prestigious Times of London. Afterward, as the Africa Correspondent for The Times, he covered a wide range of political beats in Biafra, Nigeria, Angola, the Congo, Mozambique, Botswana, Zambia, Tanzania, and Zimbabwe. He went on to counsel young journalists as the Associate Director of the PressWise Trust (a British media ethics charity) and present at colleges and conferences for many years, publishing numerous works of fiction and nonfiction inspired by his investigative journalism. 

Many things Bill spoke of stick in the memory. His favourite place was Nairobi. When asked why, he said it was for the lions walking in the streets. He wrote many books and told me the worse thing was that people lied, all the time. Deceit hard wired. His job was to untangle lies.   
Bill was quite content in the retreat home, as long as he had lots to read he was happy; I rarely turned up there without a book or two having myself a terror of nothing to read. We would chat about books, in the garden when the weather was decent, where he would expand visibly in the open space - 

He seemed to have forgotten his French as he'd aged - he forgot a deal of stuff - but his memories of the distant past were lively. His chess was erratic! Sometimes he's throw a game, probably bored by me, and sometimes we'd have a good fight. 

Deeply saddened by his death and when I examine that feeling I think its more than Bill that's died, its a whole culture that's gone with him. It's become a trope to say we'll never see his like again, but... but who knows, perhaps we'll meet again.


 PS Big thanks to Saveria for letting me use the photo of Bill -

January 25, 2026

Sunday lunch in the heavens

It was a two Claire lunch... 
featuring Rushtons new jumper
Peter and Claire -the other Claire - given a surfeit of wild boar, invited us to lunch to help eat it. There was apple sauce and ratatouille and roast potatoes and fennel and green beans. It was just the job, sharing with great mates.

The weather was lovely and the views from La Serpent were as ever spectacular. Until someone noticed,  just after lunch, that the light had changed and a white wall was streaming up the valley. Never seen the approach of a rainstorm before... picture fails to do justice
 

Thanks all. In these scary times we have so very much to be grateful for. Be safe, y'all -