Day off in Carcassonne

 Most of France appears to be underwater which we've been spared. 

Again today, wind and rain.... so glad yesterday was sunny and hot because yesterday I bunked off with Rushton to the the Gallery of Contemporary Art in Carcassonne. We had a comfortable and ungormande lunch in the Place Gambeta and then tottered off to the show.

Here are the international artists showing a bit of work apiece, all of them new to me.

The work looked mostly familiar though, developing familiar themes... nice nonetheless.

One installation alone had an impact on me. By Yoann Ximenes and called Mantras, the artist had taken significant speeches from these times (and before), taken a copy of their soundwave patterns and translated that into hanging pieces, most ingeniously (layered circles of polystyrene), surprisingly beautiful.

 In case we missed the point, the actual speeches were broadcast in the gallery. Happy time trying to match speech to vision which made me suspect they were not an actual copy -  I've always been a pedant. Still worked as a sculpture and idea IMHO.

Speeches by Mandela, Churchill, Obama, de Gaulle,  Allende, Guevarra and the like - sound bites rather than speeches actually but enough -

Entry free, staff sweet, beautiful building (ex-monastery and old bank) Well worth a visit.

CENTER FOR CONTEMPORARY ART - Office de tourisme de Carcassonne

PS just had a visit from a neighbour who has a friend who is having a vide maison, since his ma has gone into the maison de retrait. Forgot my camera! If you are yours are looking for good solid French furniture or any number of dinner services, lamps and so forth, you could do worse that contact Tim who is managing it for the family. Message Timothy Price on Fb.

consolations of a wet sunday

Not a lot of stalls in the market, what with impending rain and a bit of wind - hardly a patch on what we had been led to expect - Rushton and I had arranged to meet and were joined by Louise and Pete, below, and then Norbert... Nel is in recovery from her last treatment but doing fine.

Got home, where Pete was entertaining Bob... and offering a blessing :)

Water level of river down from yesterday and though the sky is grey, urgh, all is manageable. 

 

The rising Aude

 

Despite the flood alerts, the mighty Aude is only teasing...

Rain is forecast for the next WEEK! 

But as international world-famous traveller Max Johnson has been heard to remark, there is no such thing as bad weather - only inappropriate clothing. Dig out those wellies.

Forgot to photograph Thursday night which was brill, starting at the café du Pont  and evolving to La Chapaire where some of us had chicken in chestnut cream sauce, fantastic! What will they think of next. 

Discovered that the new tea and plant shop in Rue Gambetta (opposite the temporally defunct tout-la) does amazing cake, BTW. Recommended.

Erm... that's it. Enjoy the quiet.

esperaza red alert

 Poor old Heron having a hard time this morning - fast flowing water and a fierce wind, which blew it backwards when s/he tried to cross the river.

Apart from that... no trains between Carcassonne and Limoux until the fallen trees have been cleared (I daresay they'll be running buses...)

We're still on the reddest of alerts, which means all the emergency services are paying attention.

-erm, the sun has just come out!

attention weather...

Us locals have all been sent a weather alert from the town hall.. stay in, close shutters, don't leave cars by the river or under trees. Stay prudent. 

Its only spotting with rain now and seems quite pleasant but no doubt the fan will be hit soon. 

Took this snap this morning, showing that the river had a way to go before it breaks the bank.

Apart from that, the plane trees opposite the cafe du Pont are having a radical trim.

 

Overnight guest

 Look who turned up - en route to Africa - yup, Zoe! Trailing hardly any chaos.

good luck with the trip, hope the plans work out OK

Birthday lunch

 

The Captains birthday, which would have been a lot better if he hadn't been crippled by painful gout. Poor chap; though he was largely off his head on painkillers.

Ziggy made the chocolate and banana vegan cake. Bananas, not chips, on top.

 The guests are waving at Regina who has not fully recovered her health after a sudden hospitalisation, so is absent - 

Given the circumstances, it went well :)

The topic of health was unavoidable but we moved speedily onto spooky stories of unexplained miracles. A new and cheery focus.

Yesterdays funerals

Leaving the graveyard at Rennes-le-Chateau after Russell Coopers burial yesterday- beautiful photo by Suzie, as is the one below which shows the spectacular view up there. Couldn't get there but many many people did. Russell carved spaces in all our lives.

And a little farewell to Bill Norris, with Tia his daughter, Saveria and Sebastien, Juno, Guy and me... and Bill on the table :) Which he'd have loved -

 

Get knitting

Ria is establishing a creative group -! Grab your needles and get down there 

Tricoter, crocheter, coudre ensemble c’est relaxant, amusant, convivial et enrichissant.

 Envie de nous rejoindre ?

 Tous les lundis après-midi de 14h à 16h30.

 24, Avenue de la gare Espéraza 

 Apportez simplement votre bonne humeur et votre matériel de loisirs créatifs.

Market thrills

Blown away by this little van library arriving at the market today - thoroughly agreeable librarian with but a handful of English books and they theological or generally esoteric. Bliss! He'll be doing the Sunday market too...

and here's Nightingale, hurrah, back in the creperie and as lovely as ever!

The Capt and I ate there last night and v good it was too - 

Here, below, is yesterdays sunrise. significant especially for the strange glowing thing on the bank (right side) Any ideas? Bob thinks plastic bag. He's wrong.

Tomorrow is Russell's funeral.

Also tomorrow Tia, daughter of Bill Norris, will be at the Pont from 17H so we can share memories of Bill over a glass of wine.

Bonne courage tous.

 

RIP Russell Cooper

 Rachel, Russells daughter, has announced that her father has died. Lifted this photo of him from her Fb page - obviously captivated by his grandchild. Many condolences to Pat, his wife, and all the family.

He and Pat turned up at my studio in 2003, on the occasion of the first Chemin des Artists (the precursor of Artists a Suivre) I thought he was French and he said he often forgot what nationality he was. 

He was long established here then, a carpenter by training and living in commune at Lavaldieu. Pat and he gradually took over the place, farming, breeding horses - his parents Jill and Tony turned up in Esperaza in the fullness, followed by his sister Sian. Quite a dynasty, which have all preceded him; he'll find a noisy welcome in heaven :) 

There'll be a send off starting at Lavaldieu on Friday at 10.00. and thereafter at the cemetery at Rennes-le-chateau. Rachel says to be aware that parking will be a problem and to think of car sharing, and to bring a bottle and some food to share. If you would like to speak during the event, please contact Rachel -

Russells impact on the area was huge and his legacy will outlive us all. I'm strangely lost for words when I think of his life and times... hugs all round.

Kat and the fish

Our Kats back - been doing culture in London with Roland for the last week. Here she is in the market on Sunday, a sunny and sociable day for many of us  :)

Weather clearly getting better - here are the fish that live in Annie and Petes old bath, rising to eat for the first time in months.

 

Bill Norris RIP d. 26 Jan 2026

It's cheeky of me to write an obit for Bill since I barely knew him - but knowing him ( a little) its not altogether inappropriate...

Everyone who did know him talks of him with great affection and it would be difficult not to, his evident qualities shining out. The word Gentleman gets bandied about, terribly polite with a most mellifluous voice; even when he'd forgotten who you were and what you were doing there he was charming. He felt like an old friend as soon as you met.

I got into contact with him late in life when his daughter asked me to drop by and play chess with him. Always on the look out for a game, it is possible to pop into the Maison de retrait where he was ensconced at any time after 11.00, avoiding meal times.  It became a quiet retreat for me, a shelter from the hurly burly :)

Here's a bit of online biography :

William (Bill) Norris spent more than ten years working for various newspapers in England and Africa before his appointment as Parliamentary Correspondent to the prestigious Times of London. Afterward, as the Africa Correspondent for The Times, he covered a wide range of political beats in Biafra, Nigeria, Angola, the Congo, Mozambique, Botswana, Zambia, Tanzania, and Zimbabwe. He went on to counsel young journalists as the Associate Director of the PressWise Trust (a British media ethics charity) and present at colleges and conferences for many years, publishing numerous works of fiction and nonfiction inspired by his investigative journalism. 

Many things Bill spoke of stick in the memory. His favourite place was Nairobi. When asked why, he said it was for the lions walking in the streets. He wrote many books and told me the worse thing was that people lied, all the time. Deceit hard wired. His job was to untangle lies.   

Bill was quite content in the retreat home, as long as he had lots to read he was happy; I rarely turned up there without a book or two having myself a terror of nothing to read. We would chat about books, in the garden when the weather was decent, where he would expand visibly in the open space - 

He seemed to have forgotten his French as he'd aged - he forgot a deal of stuff - but his memories of the distant past were lively. His chess was erratic! Sometimes he's throw a game, probably bored by me, and sometimes we'd have a good fight. 

Deeply saddened by his death and when I examine that feeling I think its more than Bill that's died, its a whole culture that's gone with him. It's become a trope to say we'll never see his like again, but... but who knows, perhaps we'll meet again.

 PS Big thanks to Saveria for letting me use the photo of Bill -

Just in case you had church-going plans...

 

Sunday lunch in the heavens

It was a two Claire lunch... 

featuring Rushtons new jumper

Peter and Claire -the other Claire - given a surfeit of wild boar, invited us to lunch to help eat it. There was apple sauce and ratatouille and roast potatoes and fennel and green beans. It was just the job, sharing with great mates.

The weather was lovely and the views from La Serpent were as ever spectacular. Until someone noticed,  just after lunch, that the light had changed and a white wall was streaming up the valley. Never seen the approach of a rainstorm before... picture fails to do justice
 

Thanks all. In these scary times we have so very much to be grateful for. Be safe, y'all -

possibly too much detail on a Thursday nights outing

 Peter Dunn looking great! Had a meal with him and Clare last night at Le Chapaire, which made me consider astrology and the like. Chiefly, Bobs bad luck - which is legendary. 

...not only is he ill, he is currently iller with an inability to walk. 

In days gone by our date night was a Wednesday when we'd join our friends at Tout-la Apero; since Jean-Luc has bunked off with a major eye op that has been closed (get well and SOON, J-L) The team devolved to the newly cleaned Pont restaurant and decided to settle there. But on a Thursday, since they are closed Wednesday.

Alors, last night the captain grimly limped off. Pete was practicing with the band and Clare and I were accompanying himself. It wasn't raining :) and it was most impressive that Bob was making the effort.

Round the corner, Norbert pulled up next to us with the news that the Pont was inexplicably closed. Heigh-ho for Lucs (as was). Norbert loaded the unambulatory and Clare and I trotted along the road.

Getting to Luc's, realised this was a mistake. Not a seat in the place and a deal of noise. I had had the foresight to book a table at Le Chapaire so the team drove/walked there, so early that we disturbed the staff at their meal. All grateful to be able to sit down and order and get a drink...

...our meals arrived. Erika, a very very experienced waitress, lost her grip. Bobs meal was hurled into his lap and thence to the floor.

Erika poured salt onto his lap which would apparently remove the stains. And of course we all ate our meals while Bob watched and awaited and reflected on the bad star he was born under. He did get to eat eventually, of course -

On our way home bumped into happy friends who'd stuck with Lucs place and had no problems - and then I remembered that that very night was the first of Nightingales tenure at the creperie! When himself can walk again, will be there -

Bored yet?

 ...you get the picture! Not unpleasant, just drizzly. River not notably up. Which reminds me, yesterday I videoed the heron eating a large fish, very pleased with myself.  This site wont accept it as its too gorgeous, or something. It's on my Fb page if you want to check [Nilla Beer].

Other news; the church will be closed to the public from 24th to 31st of this month while the woodwork is treated for beasties. Ever wondered why this is rare in blighty? The answer is simple; incense.

Fast Aude

The Mighty Aude is up but we've all seen it much upper.... way to go yet. Rain constant and light here, still not snowing despite my aps assurances. Only the heron was out this morning.

 

weather warnings

 

Claire is back!! With Peter Dunn, who is having a break from treatment and looks marvellous (unlike my photo) Pete is flourishing and, fingers crossed, his medical stuff is magic. They're not here for long, only till Tuesday, so make the most of them while you can.

It's raining all over the world, it seems.  The river is brisk but not high. Lots of flood warnings everywhere but so far... mind you, my ap assured me it was snowing this morning (it wasn't). Anything might be happening.

Birthday girl Louise

 Celebrating another glorious year!! We went to the Tibetans in Quillan and had a slow and tasty lunch, padded out with cocktails for me and Louise, Chinese beer for Norbert and fizzy water for Bob. Ate hugely; three courses (Norbert and I did anyway, the others aren't made of such stern stuff)

Got the latest on the old Tibetan restaurant in Esperaza; its going to be a sushi place in February, maybe with Tibetan overtones - blame the blue cocktail, not sure what was being said. But deffo sushi.

Despite the rather pleasant day we are being given warnings about flooding.

Tremendous Tuesday

 Totally lovely day yesterday. Began at the Cafe by the station, coffee with Charlotte and a bumping-into Thomas. They shared their political expertise - and explained a lot of middle-eastern/ French interaction to me. Spellbinding!

Thence to prepare for lunch. Actually, I'm self-aggrandising; all I did was set the table. Siggi had kindly decided to bring lunch to me and Bob since we couldn't go to her house (=Bob unwell, my allergies to her beasts) and then made a party of it by also inviting Kat, Norbert and Louise and Ole-Bendik.

This is now my favourite form of entertaining!

So, this is Siggi who did all the work.

Vegetable soup, very thick, delicious.

Seafood Choucroute, haddock, giant prawns, scallops, possibly other stuff. Amazing ( and a brief silence descended during the feeding frenzy as we were all absorbed...)

Cheddar -as introduced to Siggi by Phil and eaten in his memory - , Tomis de chevre, camembert

Diary free tiramisu with chestnut puree and heaven know what, which we loved!

Huge thanks to Siggi for that. All agreed she should do it again.

Kat and Norbert

Ole-Bendik

Thoughtful Louise

My role consisted in opening a bottle of mysterious digestive, a gift from Kelly. It was billed as a fashionable shot amongst the young as it is mixed with tequila and is gum pink. It was only later, as Kat read the ingredients, that we discovered it should have been cold - cold enough to change the colour of the flower on the outside of the bottle. What will they think of next.

The evening spent in recovery mode.

Many many thanks to all for friendship and the amplification of life's pleasure!

Prosperity

Yesterdays market was sunny and fun if under resourced.... keep hearing travellers tales of ghastly weather everywhere else, whilst we persist in being a safe haven. 

Here's Claudine at le Pont this morning where we did a speed gossip session :)

Some thing I've been meaning to share that may be useful to fellow denizens... we have a French bank account, of course. Had it for nearly thirty years but it can still surprise us. Was using it as a holding pen for some dosh that had come in, prior to the appointment with an actual money advisor, and by chance looked at it a couple of weekends ago to discover that a very large sum had gone missing.  Panic!!

We are not money savvy people. I rang the banks emergency number and after a lot of faffing about was told that I had authorised the moving of said dosh; nope, I'm sure I would have remembered. Man-on-phone said go talk to the bank when open. That was effectively two days away so me and himself spent an unhappy weekend wondering what to do, if anything, and what terrible event had occurred that I'd authorised and forgotten.

Doorstepped them on the Monday. Turns out that there is an automatic process that moves money into a savings account, in your name but without telling you. The bank was very sympathetic. Ha.

 

Hail joyful morn...

Caught Roy as he was opening his shutters this morning! As you can see, his eye op is done and successful. All well.

Was so charmed by this photo that I forgot to snap todays (welcome) visitors; Norbert was first, then Kat arrived. Life has been so quiet, what with the flu, the cold and the wet. Maybe corners are being turned.

Bob and I went to Ginoles for a swim this afternoon, marvellous. Such a treat. Now keep falling asleep.

 Norbert remarked what a fine Pope Roy would make...

Philosophers lunch

Testing the air... we went with Jim Hankinson to la Chapaire which I had the foresight to pre-book. Not a spare table and punters turned away.

An age since we've seen Jim so much chattering going on, on my part anyway - and for the first time we used the buffet which is where you take as much as you like of whatever it is (little salad, stuffed eggs, stuff) whilst waiting on your main course, todays plat which was a spicy chicken and potato thang. Or in Jims case, a pasta dish.  We were all most content. And I bagged pudding, pineapple and chocolate and an almond whatnot.

Not going to give up the day job to become a food writer, for sure!

more cold

magic sky this morning,,, very cold, not a lot of joy in  the air. Mercifully, there is chocolate.
 

Slight and cold first Sunday

Very cold and diminished market - most of the few punters were in cafes, which is as it should be of course. A handful of mates out being brave - Katrine, Joseph, Billy, Eddy, Ziggi and many others stopped for a chat. Enjoyed it all! The evening stroll was spectacular  but bitingly cold. Back home and I'm frightened of getting chilblains.

Take care, y'all!