Hola

Went to Spain. This isn't it, this is coming back through the gorges... knock out. We went to La Jonquera to stock up on booze for the forthcomings  - last years' visit was a misery, as the locals know it is hell on earth, - but we wanted a day out and we needed to shop.
Took the Carcassonne/Narbonne direction and the road was pleasant and empty, after the fog had cleared. Just into Spain we saw the traffic coming back - huge, I mean maybe 20 miles, of stationary or slowly snuffling traffic. Roadworks. The thought of going home that way caused a dampener on the old high spirits.
We did a garden centre and bought cheap fruit trees and then we had a splendidly oily and garlic laden lunch. We bought bottles of spirits. Many. We headed for Perpignan and came home that way, clear all the way. So if you too are looking to do the duty-free ritual, consider that route and save yourself some grief.

All mourning the death of Johnny here. He was a kind of community metaphor; as the Presidential office said this morning, 'there is a bit of Johnny in all of us'.

Nothing happening

 Tree is up in the square.... snow is going, slowly.... christmas lights are on. All quiet.

seasonal changes

Alors, I'm back after marathon journey which was unusually lacking in incident. But look! Changes while I've been away. SHOCKED to see the old arch and stairs under the cafe du Pont have been filled in - an ancient and charming corner of our little town - because they had started to constitute a health risk. How can stairs constitute a health risk? People sliding, tumbling, cascading down them?

Not a bit of it. The stairs had become a health risk because the male patrons of the cafe couldn't resist emptying their bladders down them. There is a perfectly nice toilet in the cafe, but....

Took a look at the alley where the stairs used to emerge and found there a very unattractive steel gate. The last mayor (but two)  General Lafite had arranged for Esperaza to have protected status - no changes without a laborious permission-granting process. Clearly now non-effective. Bah.

On a happier note, there is a huge christmas tree in the square. Saw it arrive on the back of a lorry whilst breakfasting in l'Oryginal with Kat and Mike and followed it to the square where a team were employed in hoisting it into place for the season. 

Here is the last of the snow, for the moment. It seems it snowed last week  and friends in the hills were snowed in; happens about every 7 years and its time. Forecast clear for the moment but its jolly chilly.
Great to be back though :)

wedding belle

 Yesterday was Pete and Nels  wedding day... perfect weather for a perfect occasion :)

Here they are walking from their house in Autugnac to the town hall and here are the mayor and her assistant that did a sensitive and charming job of reading official documents. Perhaps they knew that Nel would be carrying a spray of plastic magnolias lit by fairy lights because they gave her a beautiful bouquet of real flowers.

 Afterwards we wandered back to the house where the neighbours and a couple of mates waited to share Blanquette de Limoux and cake.

Gillie and I were the witnesses, Bob carried the rings, Alain kept his eye on things and Roland took photos and acted as Maitre d'., which was as well because there is a timetable that we could have forgotten in the joy of the day. (Looking forward to his photos which will be superbe, he is a perfectionist and he was very happy.) My snaps are scant and I have none of Kat, surprisingly.

cake-making Laura

Pipe-smoking Alan

Gillie, madame le Maire, adjunct, neighbours (forgotten names) Alan

After that Pete and Nel took Gillie and me, Bob and Alan to l'Odalisque in Limoux for dinner. It was brill.
I'm off to Isle de Brexit for a week now, bus from Toulouse to Victoria (23 hours, 90 euros return) Time for a rest.

feasting again

Enough of the sunrises and sunsets, here we are feasting at Kats last night. She and Roland did a brilliant meal for me and Bob. Joel and Pat; starter of home-made humus, home-grated fresh beetroot, tapenade by Toby and pate by Charlie, followed by the Roland Surprise, see pic. Delicious. Then an old cantal cheese. And apples from the Ariege baked with a little ginger served with brebis and Pats chocolate mousse.

Conversation wasn't bad either.

fol-de-rol

Another beautiful if cold day - not that cold really, 11 degrees this evening by the chemists sign in Couiza. Here are some Christmas decorations waiting to be switched on and below, the fab sunset that occurred around 6pm. Been shopping in Limoux with Kat - sooooooo lazy :)

Forgot to say, we ate in the Crepierie last night and there were only a couple of other tables taken. Never seen the place so quiet. AND that they are still able to do the chanterelle and chicken crepe; the frost hasn't killed off all the wild mushrooms. Kevin has a couple of kilos fresh ones delivered daily. Get 'em while you can, the season is over far too soon.

Sundaze news

 Dawn. Ridiculously pretty, the shot doesn't do the full chocolate-box.

The market was fun, not to busy but comfortably good-humoured -

Et voila!!! KAT IS BACK Here she is in her gallery where she has been good enough to show a calendar made by an old friend of mine, Lilian Delevoryas;  see

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mary-Magdalene-Calendar-2018-Beloved/dp/0995510342/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1508588057&sr=1-1&keywords=mary+magdalene+calendar+2018

since it is called 'The Beloved' and features Mary Magdalene it is most appropriate for the region.