Melancholia

Here's Durer's fabulous woodcut chosen more or less at random because this blog will be quiet for a change, until mid-August. I'm off to see family and friends and do a bit of work so unless shattering news reaches me long distance there will be no postings till then.
Don't do anything exciting in my absence. And keep cool :)

Monday night market...

...was rammed!! 

Despairing of finding a seat - and wary as ever of smokers - we decamped to Gert and Elzbeths terrace where we had previously had apero with lovely Lizzie Jackson. Peter Dunn joined us. Hes lovely too.  A (lovely) Danish visitor from St Hilare was already there and I'm not even going to try to spell her name.

 The heat continues hot but there was a decent breeze and a fine night was had by all. Damp towels over open windows at night, y'all - you'll sleep well then :)

Unusual Sunday

The town tuned out en masse to watch the Tour de France hurtle past... they go very fast, obviously, but  not so obvious is that they are packed together in tiny streets, sometimes 10 abreast, at reckless speeds. So fast and furious that they create a refreshing draught and are rather scary.

All agreed it was a great event. The caravan was a success, as one might expect when strangers hurl little giftie things at you, however useless and daft. Much hilarity in the neighbourhood.

How to follow that?? Tea at the chateau, of course. Here is Jamsie cutting cake...

  and fellow-feasters Sue and John Marshall. There was a tiny break in the heat when thunder and lightening sounded and flashed. a few drops of rain, then back to the heat wave.

Here is the lovely Pyrenean Blue bee having fun with a passion flower

Relaxing in the cool

 Last night it drizzled - though the jury wasn't sure if it was cloud or yer actual rain. Whatever; bliss  to be cool. We missed the Fete du Vin since Fran and Clare had asked us to dinner with Louise and Norbert. No idea how the FdV went but will find out... our evening, however,  went tremendously well, on a roofed terrace by the pool with food that seemed to have been shipped in from a class restaurant.

It seems our hostess loves to cook - our great good luck, who love to eat:)






I'm not sure that it's politique to publish the menu but l want to be able to recall the meal--- which was gazpacho, salmon with quails eggs, brilliant cheese (runny gorgonzola, ancient comte, a comforting brebis) then jelly made of pink wine with red fruit and paper-thin-sliced pineapple, lashings of cream and a home made-liquor which has surely fried what was left of the brain cells...

what a way to go.

Big hugs and many thanks to Fran and Clare for all their inspired work.

Off to watch the Tour de France now. Its grey and overcast and its possible the cyclists are very relieved.

All lit up

in time for the fete du vin tonight!

Tour de France

 Today's paper has a Brit in the lead, though by the time you read this anything could have happened. Apropos; most of the town will be closed to traffic on Sunday as the cyclists come in from Couiza to Fa on the lower road. The market may be reduced but the 8a8 will be open as will the cafes and La Vie Vintage, so no reason to stay away :) The temperature is mild today, in the mid-20's at a guess, most pleasant. However, a new heat wave is apparently approaching and all of France has been told not to squander water. Bath with a friend.

Here's sweet Tango growing rabbits ears -
Tomorrow night is  the fete du Vin, better get your tickets now (Chez Charlie has them )

Romance blooms

 Here is Juttas' daughter Eleanor with Felix... who proposed marriage to her on the mountain above town and was accepted:) She has a beautiful ring and we were charmed to share a little in the story of their lives. ( I blame the blanquette for the blurred picture though I was probably overcome with emotion )

And here is Barbara Ford who was exhibiting at the Domaine Antugnac  with friends Raj Gopal, Christian Hadengue, Tony Cassius... one day only, it tied in with music and a tasting of the wines and was quite lovely. The huge silver tanks where the wine is coaxed into life were a perfect setting for Christians large calligraphic pieces, Roger had a good space and Tony was dotted all over the cool cellars. Nice event.
Barbara is devoted to insects as am I, as are we all in the face of ecological disaster.

 Been wandering about in the cooler parts of the day - here is a patch en route to Campagne/sur/aude which not long ago was a wheat field. Grapes are forming already on the newish vines.
Lots of little fishes in the river and there are many large trout floating about. Could be that all is well.

Revolution report

In a fervour of patriotism I trotted off to the Monument aux morts to celebrate the revolution. Our mayor made a very good speech about the origins of democracy and the knock-on to other countries.  I was translating and thinking at the same time so I'm not sure if he mentioned our own Thomas Paine and his Rights of Man (plus the American constitution which apparently Paine knocked out in the tea-break while the others were still debating it), who went to America after the Paris revolt.
He did mention the Marquis de Sade though - who had been held in the Bastille.

Glad that the event has a certain standing here though perturbed that it is less than in other years. There was a time the tables were out in the square for a meal, bands played and the elderly waltzed about; guess the demographics have changed and the emphasis is now on funfair for the young.
Vive la republique!

Gert and Elsbeth joined us for dinner and were tremendous company, as ever. Today is cooler, there's a decent breeze and the sun is pleasant rather than too damn hot.

-But its early yet...

Bastille weekend

Forgot the National fete last night - gave dinner to Ian and Bob and Jamsie and Jamsie and I spent the latter part of the evening drinking port in the study and reading books. Hence the music that carried on till the early hours did not unduly disturb ... it was the thumpity-thump variety that does not carry enough variety to appeal.

Today we were in Belpeche lying around Richard and Alisons' swimming pool, drinking to excess and eating too much.

 Got home late and relaxed and walked around Esperaza to get a little exercise. More thumpity-thump music and lo! a fair on the banks of the river

Lots of young persons having fun. Lots of strangers in town. All good, vibrant stuff ; and I'm off to bed.

Happy Bastille Day out there!
Down with tyranny everywhere!

Blues, wine and casualties

 Two for the diary. All need booking -  the Fete du Vin from Chez Charlie

Spotted Neil yesterday  entertaining his son Peter - what the snap does not show is that Neils' leg is in plaster and he's pushing that on the scooter too. Achilles tendon torn. The perils of exercise.

Soft heat

After the rain the heat is back but so far rather softly. It seems to be the invitation for all sorts of activities in the town to commence - this morning the Rue Victor Hugo is being dug in parts, noise and dust accompanying, and yesterday I noticed the new roof going on in Kats' road. Putting off going to the little market in the hope that they'll stop. Dust in the air, nasty - the baker Madame Serrano was coughing this morning - so were most of her queue including me.

Note public notices below...

Le Deluge

There was a drop of welcome rain yesterday followed by a rainbow - see Gert, above, with same; and a lovely night market with all our friends out playing; here's New Kelly with Gert  doing god-knows-what, plus a snap of some other friends.

Very good evening.

At about 3.00a.m. the rain started and has steadily poured ever since. On my washing, chiefly.

 And exciting news, for me at any rate -  the book I've spent three winters drawing pictures for is out -
see https://www.amazon.com/dp/1073031217?ref_=pe_3052080_397514860 and feel free to buy copies for all your friends :)

Matching philosopher

 It's not everyday you find a philosopher to go with the sofa but when Jim Hankinson and I wandered to Kats gallery, there was a match :)
Went on to see my retrospective, a work in progress, at Richards gallery (he left me a key-)
And any guesses about the snap below?

Sundowner

Norbert and Louise were last nights' heroes - in high temperatures they held a party in their eyrie. They'd had the great good sense to ask Kelly to help cater for us lot but they were kept busy enough with supplying Pimms - yesss - and other delights.

 Here's Nel being naughty with the macaroons... later there was orange and cardamon ice cream. Before there were cheeses and figs and brownies and baklava and much else -

 Nice to catch sight of Bob and Maria who rarely come a-carousing, ditto Diana; my camera was as dozy as I am so you'll just have to take my word for it.

Party was still going strong as Bob and I tottered down the hill after 11.00pm, what night birds we are becoming - Big love to party animals all and to Louise and Norbert for the event.
Same time next week?

continual celebration

Dinner at Douggie and Reginas last night... with Les Rushtons, Peter Dunn and Clare Miller, Phil and Bob and the post-birthday girl, me. It was glorious!! Old friends and new in happy companionship, eating really well and drinking not too much. (Melon and ham and feta and something like rocket that wasn't, must ask; chicken and little potatoes and olives in orange/ herb sauce; cheese of distinction; strudel and ice cream)

THEN Douggie projected some travel slides mostly of China onto the house-next-door. Sat on the swing seat in the garden and rejoiced.

July 4th

It was my birthday yesterday and my friends were amazing :) Claudinne and Jean brought lunch to eat in the garden - and Margaret and John gave me dinner with Keiran and Anne. 

Didnt get to photograph the birthday cake alas. It was covered in candles. 

In between lunch and dinner, Phil took me to swim at Rennes-les-Bains. Perfect day. 

Tim Wallace-Murphy, 13th January 1930 - July 2cnd 2019 RIP

Tim was a familiar sight in Esperaza. He moved here from Nice a few years ago and was a lively addition to our community... he's been ill for yonks, COPD and latterly a tumour on the lung for which he refused treatment.  He was by training a doctor and knew a thing or two. At 89 he figured he'd had a very good innings.

I initially heard of him from mutual friends in Nice and then met him at a lecture in Carcassonne; he came to my home where we discovered with delight that we were related,  kind of. He wrote his first book with Trevor Ravenscroft ('Spear of Destiny' author) who was my stepmothers' brothers' first wifes' stepfather. Family!

Tim has written extensively about the mystical stuff in the region - just google him or check Amazon - and was a frequent performer on the lecture circuit.

Dear man was very much loved and sympathies go to Patrick de Kocsis, Jay Martin and the other questers who cared for him with dedication right to the end. His erudition, humour and  generosity of spirit were an example to us all; we should all die with such grace.  Dying, he said ' was not all it was cracked up to be' - take that as you will :)

- there is a go-fund me site if you'd care to contribute to his funeral costs.
https://www.gofundme.com/funeral-for-tim-wallacemurphy

treat

My sweet husband - not an opera fan - took me to see Tosca last night. It opened the Cacassonne festival, in the open air in the chateau. Cool breezes wafting in from the mountains.
Not an easy setting for bashing out Puccini perhaps but it seemed to me the production was masterly, loads of back projections, orchestra half under the stage, signs to the sides with the sung texts (unreadable to me and Bob on account of age and eyes -)  Never seen Tosca live so can't make comparisons but seen a few recordings and this was better.

Eva Vesin was a full-bodied Tosca; not fat full-bodied but full bodied as in a really good toothsome red wine. Scarpia was Jean-Luc Ballestia and he was brill too. More of a Muscat.

In the afternoon Phil and I took Max to swim in Rennes-les-bains. Natural hot water, warm day, hardly anyone there. Love the idea of the lake for swimming  but, erm....

Got home about 2.00 am and thrilled to find the stars across Esperaza, the milky way bridging the street where we live. The policy of turning out the street lights at 1.00am is  marvellous - like a blanquette.

Random Update

Didn't get to the night market last night because we were dining with Micheal and Barbara, in some style :) in the house with the biggest hollyhocks in the world. 

In the afto before the night market discovered much activity behind the school... it seems that the old basementish space is being transformed to take the childrens afternoon meals. What a good idea, you might think - no crossing of the road to the old restaurant at the side of Luc's where they now eat. But alas. It transpires that the food will now be shipped in from 'a multinational' and simply heated there. No local produce, no local engagement. 

 Phil kindly took me to the new lake at Quillan, on the Carrefour round-a-bout, which was lovely though the water is terribly shallow after the heatwave (which is on-going BTW). It was my first visit and it had some great features. The seating is carved out of boulders, how cool is that? There are working showers, toilets, a little cafe for ice-cream and chips. And hardly anyone there. Will be back.

 And this mornings' excitement is the burst water main up the road. Water off. Shouldn't be long.