Thursdays treat...

... was a visit from Annette (and Cen) and their marvellous offshoots, Rae and Anwen - clutching a bottle of Cremant de Limoux. Wonderful family; love knowing them :) 

Really not fair of me to snap the young ones on their machines, but they looked so cute. Actually they were talking non-stop and constantly engaged with the unvirtual in the impasse.
 

Carcassonne in the cold

 Good weather and impenetrable work equals a day out in Carcassonne - where it was disappointingly grey and overcast AND cold. The shops I'd wanted to visit, notably the posh framers, were closed. Sigh. Still, it does you good to get out and I made some friends on the return journey which was 4 hours long due to bus driver strikes. 

Though frisky enough, there was a definite fin de siècle vibe in the air...

It's official

 Finally bumped into the mayor, smoking on the steps of the town hall with the third policeman - after wishing them the best of the season, I asked about the publishing of the photos of the security cameras (see posting of a couple of days ago). They'd already talked about it with the gendarmes so were aware of the issues. Our policeman informs us that it IS illegal to photograph security cameras - who knew, eh - but the mayor said it was OK to publish them.

Go figure.

Once you start looking, you'll find the 36 posted in the environs - but remember not to photograph them.

Here is the mist lifting off town this morning, clearly going to be another beautiful day:)

Spent yesterday evening with Phil and Ziggy and her daughter Laura, finishing up their xmas excess - we'd already eaten ours at lunchtime. Bob and I passed the 25th in calm solitude with Netflix and a marvellous menu from  Chez Charlie - for him, Foie Gras, St Jacques, crevettes sauces au girolles, Fricassee de Capon, gratin Dauphinois; for me, Foie Gras, Lotte a l'Americane, Pave de Veau aux cepes, pomme de terre, cepes at marrons sautees. Far far too much and far too rich but... hey - 

and now, really, we diet.

Joyeux noel

The captain dressing the potted Christmas tree, yesterday - ably aided by Tango -

then we went to Katerine's for a traditional Norwegian feast. Started with hot and fruity drinks in the garden, a chance to catch up with everyone; then into a spectacular dinner, cod and beef for which I do not have the words. Much joy and approval all round :) 

The only decent photos I got inside were of Charlotte - everyone else was blurred or behaving inappropriately. (My camera skills decrease in proportion to the amount of blanquette drunk; I've noticed this before but never worked out the mechanism.)

Katerines agreeable dog enjoyed it too -

Regret there are no snaps of our hostess, who must have worked for days to provide some dozen of us with an unforgettable Christmas eve. Big thanks to her xxxx

-and a happy, safe and healthy Christmas to everyone out there. Esperaza conveys blessings to all.
 

It aint censorship, but...

Here's the little Thursday market today, slightly friskier than usual with some stalls doing artisanal Christmas gifts. 

-This wasn't what I expected to post. I expected to post some photos of the ******** ****** situated on the *****; good, clear pictures.  But two gendarmes hove up next to me and asked what I was up to. Showed them the snaps, told them why. There followed an extremely interesting debate - really, they were erudite and intelligent young men and it was a pleasure to talk with them. The outcome was that the mayor must agree before anything else happens. Can't find him, staff don't know when he'll be back. 

Hope to post more about this some other time :)

Temperatures today 26 degrees, spring is here -

 

This mornings sun rise... and a mild and pleasant day followed.

Gerard's funeral was amazing, a vast turnout - many people left standing in the square as the church was overflowing. I elbowed my way to the front - next to the rugby team, under the electric heating - and was very moved by the speeches and memories and tears that flowed. So sad for the family, who will not be having the Christmas they were expecting.

It was all too overwhelming so I didn't get to the actual burial. Will hoof it to the graveyard soon and report back... 
 

Gerard's funeral today - info

 

Literary event -

La Vie Vintage hosted an apero last night and showed off some writers of these parts - only had time to meet two of them but really enjoyed that. Here is Jennifer Andrewes whose book l haven't read yet but it's on my list - an account of her first year hereabouts. Bet its a good laugh !! She seemed a very good humoured lady and as we all know, that's essential -

Catherine de Courcy is a very accomplished writer, author of many books and  behold! Her Montsegur has been translated into French; available in English too -

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Had coffee this morning with a new neighbour, a French man who moved here from Greece. One of the reasons he came here?? Because the international community was so large and interesting!

 

Bright Lights

To Narbonne last night, to see Carmina Burana - the Carl Orf setting to music of texts found in Latin from monks being monks. Last  night it was billed as a 'spectacle' and so it was - the choir dressed in robes in cages at the sides of the stage and a ballet enacted between them. Sensational set, flowing between movements. Veering just this side of vulgar.

The only thing wrong with it was the audience. There was an announcement at the start, most fierce, that it was absolutely forbidden to film or record the proceedings. Clearly a red rag to a bull as the audience promptly whisked out phone video cameras - those that weren't chattering or whistling along. 

-----At half time managed to change seats.

Highly recommended should it turn up in a theatre near you.

Geriatrics out there, don't forget to collect your pressie from the mayor and the municipality! Heard from the staff how difficult it is to arrange and  how much extra work it is for them all so apart from the goodies being good, its only polite.

 

Gerard Pascual RIP

 

Alas, the Brits here have lost a friend -  Gerard died today. The bar was most sombre and the football (France v. Morocco) barely attended this evening. 

He was awarded many honours for his work within COES, our rugby club, and was held in high esteem by all for being generally a good bloke. The local papers will do him decent obits, no doubt. Word is that the funeral will be in the church on either Saturday or Monday. 

Love and hugs and sincere condolences to Michele.

keeping warm

 Yesterdays eagerly anticipated lunch was cancelled due to the hostess succumbing to covid, alas.... get well soon Claire and keep John at arms length. See you in the new year.

For those who are here and well enough to attend, here's what looks like a most interesting evening at La Vie Vintage - save the date and see you there -

Some you loose

Alain last night, possibly the moment when he realised that the English had painted their flag in his (French) face... didn't do any good though, the French won the football. You possibly already know this.

Enjoyed being in the bar and exchanging racial slurs with our friends.

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Today the MJC was miraculously open - and the Esperaza Xmas market was enacted...

some extremely good musicians noodling on stage kept us there longer than might otherwise have been the case. And there we found the three sisters, who were en route to us for lunch - 

We had a mushroom stroganoff with coconut which worked really well - salad stuff - cheese - baked apples. Mercifully most of it was prepared yesterday as today I have an inexplicable hangover.

Loved feeling part of Pete and Clares family. Rather missing my own now.

 

Star material

Excitement in Matthieu's bar yesterday as brits were asked about le foot - Sally was stupendous and explained why the England would win,  and Tony wasn't bad either. I ummed and ahhed though my bit because, frankly, I expect France to win and if not, a goalless draw - but they wanted a crowd of brits going we will win and we obliged. No idea if they used it, it was for todays breakfast TV and I was late getting up....  

If I had any power in the media I would sign Sally up for something, she has such charisma! 

As if that wasn't enough excitement, it was followed by lunch at Dougie and Reginas with Clare and Pete - and Regina talked us through her photos of her long Camino. Stupendous.

And she baked the sausages that Marcus gave us into little rolls. Remarkably Marcus had shot the boar (in Germany) had had it processed. It was delicious. She served them with vegetarian haggis from Scotland so it was a multicultural event.

 

Deck the halls

The church of St Micheal was rammed last night to listen  to Vox Vallis and their carols of most dubious theology... fabulous singing and great to singalong with the more familiar numbers. 

Hearty congratulations were distributed in Jean-Lucs bar afterwards 

and hats off to the heroes of the hour, James and Alex, who knocked the choir into shape and provided some magical solos for our delight. Suggested that they drag the team into a studio and record an album for christmas.

 

Looming crimbo

 Forgot photies last night - which was dinner with Phil and Ziggy, chicken casserole with dumplings - here is some serious info for the geriatrics amongst us instead.

Will be there - if only to check that I've not been struck off the list for being foreign.

DONT FORGET tonight, 8.00pm at the church - Vox Vallis will be singing christmas stuff for us!

no prizes...

...for guessing who dropped in last night :) 

 

In the dark

 ...excitement last night when Esperaza had a long power cut - from around 9.30 pm to about midnight, with local variations. Katrine in Antugnac got back on grid before any of us and Gillie (over the river) didn't get on again until the morning. Then there were water cuts.  Various gossip about causes. 

It's too cold. Hope everyone's OK - the moon was what kept me awake, very bright so probably a Good Thing, but that's enough now.

Here's me in my headlight hoping to finish my book.

Below, our football team braving all. 

Two moons

++Melancholic wandering last night on the death of another friend, artist Dex Wright - very young, just achieving some recognition. Will write of him later, too soon now - too shocked, too saddened. Not least because we'd been working together on an installation in his gallery, due to open later this month.

Esperaza is freezing BTW. -2 last night. Bit warmer now the sun is up and the mists are clearing...
 

Young Tim

 It was Tims birthday yesterday; party at Matthieu's. The pictures say it all. Though actually not, because they are heavily edited.

Tim and cake

Cleopatra 

Cleopatras familiar, Ole-Bendik

 Roland and Kat

This last picture I took at Jean-Luc's last week but only just getting round to adding it - introducing Tony Williams, music man from York who has bought a place in La Place. He's fitting in nicely :)

Other photos were censored by the sitters - sad Susan won't let me publish pretty ones of her, for example - but we aim to please here at paparazzi central. 

If you are in Esperaza, wrap up well for the market. Been out for croissants already and it is freezing cold though not actually freezing... yet. Don't forget, the Abbey at St Hilaire is hosting the choir Vox Vallis at 5.00 this afternoon. Lots of work by many friends to make a christmas concert for your pleasure!

hunkering down

 Winter is here and will probably get worse. We busy ourselves with insulation and the like. Our leader President Macron has warned us not to use unnecessary power or there will be black-outs; we stock up on candles, logs, firelighters and suchlike. And cut the heating of course.

Here are Bieke and Willem, suitably wrapped up on the garden.

the little cabin where the tools are stored (- hoping the photo may entice Ryan and Alecia back to us -)

and the work of Laughing Anna, who pops up at this time of year to enliven the town. Behold, Santa and a snowman share a burger...

I've been hanging out amassing gossip; the following is a selection -

*The closure of the MJC (=Maison des Jeunes et Culture, opened after the last European war to ensure the survival of the French cultural activities that were fought for -) was occasioned by the failure of a fire alarm and some cardboard boxes in a corridor. Rather than tidy up and buy a battery, the mayor has closed the building down totally for the foreseeable. Well known for not being a fan of culture, this does nonetheless seem a little pointed - its remit is 'open to all', haha. 'Closed to everyone' now.

* The mayor has installed 26 - twenty six- CTTV cameras about town, including three up the Mont Marot path. This is to prevent fly-tipping. The reason there is fly-tipping is because the cessation of rubbish removal services are making it necessary for some.... they have so far caught five transgressors and they have been soundly reprimanded. 

* Toby and Leo have left us until next year, heading for the warmth and cultural joys of Amsterdam -

* Sunday 4th, tomorrow, at St Hilaire will be the first of the Christmas carol concerts by Vox Vallis, the choir organised by our very own James and Alexander and featuring many friends - the event will be repeated in the church at Esperaza on the 8th. Take a cushion and thermal underwear, but do go, it'll be beautiful -

Healthy indeedie

Le Healthy Life beckoned last night, after an apero at Jean-Lucs with the team which was most agreeable. 

Above is Peter Dunn, Clare being absent - and below, Mamadu who joined us briefly - most engaging :)

-and dinner. Cor. I had pork in mustard sauce with sweet potato puree. The round thing is a roasted baby aubergine. Followed by Pain Perdu. Sigh. Life in Esperaza is exquisitely fattening.