November 25, 2024

Weather will get better, they say -

 

 Since I go rather early to the market, I'm not sure what happens later... but early on, it was c o l d and as you can see from the snap, few people about.
But our Kate turned up!! Long time since she's been sighted in these parts. All well with her and Dermot...


This morning, Rue Gambetta is closed. Workmen at the top. Very pleasant :) We're off swimming and shopping - have a nice Monday, y'all!



November 22, 2024

Autumn in the Aude

 


Le Relais Occitan
It's been a while since I posted... we've had rain, we've had sunshine. we've had rainbows and all is well. High spot of my week - apart from Bobs (eventual) return on Tuesday - was Wednesday night at Tout la Apero.  Jean-Luc is back from his hols and opened his doors; Alain is back from Australia, Robin from Blighty (briefly, he's off to Toulouse), oh and many others came and went. As ever, fab range of chatting. 

Been swimming today. Indoors, heated, we are not crazy. This is the life :)




November 16, 2024

Congratulations





 Ever so-slightly surreal evening at La Chapaire with Claudine... it was the third year of their being a fully functioning restaurant, so celebrations were abounding!

Congratulations to Guillaume and all involved.


November 14, 2024

all well for once

 All good here, from my point of view anyway - Bob is OK according to his UK team, for his age (!) so will be back Tuesday and about time too. Sends love to all who've wished him well.

Thursday market charming as ever. Met with Claudinne, then Rushton hove up back from Japan. Japan one of the few places I'd leave Esperaza for and since I have a nephew teaching there it may not be impossible... will find out more.

Temperatures are low but the skies are clear and the bright blue that makes life so delightful here continues to bathe us... here's the moon this evening.

and in case you didn't realise that christmas is breathing down your neck, the decorations are up. But not yet switched on.



November 13, 2024

good news!

Ruby and Donna have arrived!!
Tobys grandchildren have been birthed in Amsterdam to the delight and joy of all the family. 
Hearty congratulations to all.
Meanwhile, in Esperaza; its winter. We had our first really cold morning yesterday, the pond frog has hibernated and the garden birds are ravenously hungry. I'm making soup.

In Rue Gamebetta, the original Healthy Life has moved on to become a tea room and old clothes shop - no idea when its opening but there will certainly be a full report.

Bob is still in Blighty, waiting to find out when he'll be back (specialised medical stuff). I'm cocooning.


 

November 11, 2024

Less exciting Sunday market

Of course, rain never entirely stops the market but the forecast was bad and a lot of stall holders didn't show. Enough to chat with and wander around, so most pleasant - and the rain was only intermittent. 
Today is a national holiday to remember the dead of previous wars. 
Esperaza is deserted - no cars - its very like lockdown in the covid years. Lovely.

 

November 7, 2024

Thursday market excitement

 On Thursdays there is a market in the square - a fraction of the Sunday extravaganza- where fresh vedg are sold, some meat, new baked bread, that sort of thing. Robust clothes for women of a certain age, occasionally books, the wonderful cordonnier for fixing your shoes and cutting your keys. Very laid back and peopled with the gentle elderly, pottering about and gossiping.

Today the sun was shining and it boded well. But Linares, the newsagent, was closed. According to the sign this was due to an electricity cut.


And such it was. None of the shops had electricity and the Relais Occitan cafe could only provide bottles of beverage so the atmosphere was rather giddy and full of laughter.


Here's Clare wondering what to do without coffee.
 
What with the sunshine and carnival atmosphere it was all a bit jolly. I skulked a while and thought of the Pont cafe, where the electric was still on AND they had a pain au chocolate left.
----Despite it all, life is good.


 

November 6, 2024

FYI Francis Funeral

 

 
The funeral will be in the church tomorrow, Friday the 8th,  at 3.00.

November 4, 2024

Francis Dos Santos RIP


Most of the inhabitants of Esperaza knew Francis. He was kindly and charming and thoughtful and on the brink of retirement... heart-breaking, that after a life of hard work, back-breaking work, his life should end so suddenly. 

Francis was found in his field trapped under a tractor late Sunday night. The local papers say that his injuries were too severe to be survived.

I'independent says he was known for his kindness and helpfulness and indeed he was. We first knew him when he was quite new here, some 20 years ago; I didn't have much building French and neither did he, being Portuguese, but his English wasn't bad. He was a mason; having trained as an engineer/architect in Portugal he was incredibly useful. Looking at my home I see evidence of his work everywhere. 

 

He was also a lover of parrots.

Profound condolences to his family and to all those that mourn him.



November 3, 2024

Sundays revels

It's that time of year...
and the lovely sitar player was out again. Good market, if a little thin. 
The big bad news is that Jean-Luc at Tout-la is off on his hols - well merited but all our Wednesdays are disrupted.
Probably best to check with Roy but guessing it'll be the Pont that welcomes us for the interim.

 

November 2, 2024

appy alloween


 Rolands shoulder is rebuilt, safely, and he is has started his rehabilitation in Limoux. Kat sent the picture and as she remarked, only three more weeks and it'll be over. 

Toussaint being a public holiday was fairly noisy here, many children painted up to look ghastly and being marched about. Today much more pleasant. The captain and I have booked our christmas lunch at a table in Couiza, delighted with the notion... and for the moment we will live on lettuce.

October 29, 2024

Rain not yet stopped play

The Mighty Aude is more like itself after the deal of rain lately, mercifully stopped for the moment though from the look of the clouds not for long - I seized the moment and went hither and yon garnering gossip. 

 There's a lot! All pertaining to us geriatrics and our health. 

Roland was out on his bike but goes into hospital today to have his shoulder re-built; he says I may photograph him when he can lift his arm again. 

M had a call last night from G who said that A had disappeared from his hospital in Quillan, in the pouring rain; M went off to find him. The hospital took their time responding to the emergency button he had to press to gain access and then told him A was not missing, not at all (just refusing his meds.) On his way back to Esperaza in the rain, M saw a fast car swerving and avoided him, to find that the big red rock at the entrance to Esperaza was tumbling into the main road... M heroically stopped, put up the hazard signs and started to lift large boulders to the side. Fortunately there was only one other car on the road and he stopped to help. The gendarmes were subsequently informed - though at the hour I was out no-one and been up there to see what was happening.

Saw O-B looking great!!

And some young women tritt-trotting in from yoga. All good.

Myself, I managed to get a human on the number my doc told me to ring to make an appointment with a specialist. They can't see me for 9 months!! Fortunately I'm rather well.

There's loads more but you get the gist. Old people continue to triumph: as Didier said on Sunday, we take what pleasures we may in the face of approaching doom.

October 27, 2024

Hols in the South

Unaccustomed silence for the last week as I've been away with Margo at her new home just outside Manosque, which is somewhere between Aix and Marseille. It's an unspoilt medieval town, only partially reconstructed; full of historical delights and a Chinese eat-all-you-can buffet of great nosh. Fun to see her and Theophile - who has grown even taller - their new-build home is taking shape, elegantly.  Got back late last night due to hold up on the train line. Missed the last Limoux train and of course no buses so soppy kisses to Gracie and Bob for bringing me safely home. xxxxx.

Todays after-market Tiffin was with Dougie and Regina; they are away to foriegn parts for a while and will be greatly missed. See you in the spring, 

Regina makes her own oatcakes!!!



 

October 20, 2024

Saturday and Sunday in mid October, Esperaza



Here's Deb Mullins, very old friend and companion of our youth :) Here for a long weekend. Glorious fun, chattering about the complex past. Took this snap at Peter and Clares, where we went for lunch yesterday... weather smiled on us as did everything, really.

Diane Dunn was there too and was forced to wear a sunhat.


As ever, La Serpent was stunning



In the evening we hotfooted it to the hat museum at Montazels where a Catalan band were playing Country, Blues and US Folk. It wasn't was bad as it sounds; I'd go so far as to say that the audience loved it. Great musicians.

And todays Big Boy!!! is Peter Gregory, who invited us all to an apero at Toutla to celebrate his 77th year.  Thanks to him and Nel - lovely idea, a few nibbles and a little glass of bubbles or two, many friends exchanging great notions; lets do it again soon.
Here's to the next 77, Pete xxx







October 18, 2024

Garlands for the Dino?

Bob, Kat, Max, Andy, Clare, Pete, Di

 Here's the tribe on Wednesday night, waving goodbye to John and Jean - and Max and Andy who left on Thursday. To be replaced by this beauty on the ex-place de Verdun. 




October 16, 2024

Lifes mysteries.


 Guillaume and Manu and sprog in London!! Back today, to La Chapaire. Where they belong.

John and Jean leave us today for Ollerton. Had a final and splendid meal at La Gallerie, Quillan, last night. Was obliged to have starter and pud., due to excessive living. Mind you, it was brilliant and more than enough so no complaints. 


Baked Alaska, here called Omelette Norvegiene. No, no idea why. Will ask Ole-Bendik tonight.

October 15, 2024

Esperaza domesticity


 Sundays market was crowded, of course, and fun - and Ziad was showing his prize for Top Nosh,  which is most impressive. Amazing Lebanese food. He graciously said that everyone in Esperaza works really hard to be the best! 

Gave dinner to Gert and Elsbeth last night and forgot to photograph anyone, which is a shame as everyone was gorgeous. Unlike dinner, which veered on the only-slightly-edible side. Jean and John have one more night with us and then hit the UK route; they will be much missed (John is unblocking a drain as I write...)

October 12, 2024

Max and Andy back

Max and Andy are back in town for a few days -= too excited catching up last night to find out where they are going to or indeed have come from. 
 
John, Jean and Andy

La Chapaire has v sensibly found ways to deal with tourist indecision!!
Our host is heading for London today, three days there with his wife and son - a well deserved break. They are staying near the British Museum and we had a great time telling them where else they should visit. Wish we could show them around.
Incidentally, la Chapaire got an unannounced visit from the French Hygiene Health Inspectors and were found to be impeccably impeccable, of course.

Hols., again



 Bobs brother John is with us with his partner Jean - who doesn't photograph well :) - so we are gadding about. Yesterday was St Pierre de Mer and a fave restro., le Baline Bleu which is extraordinary by any standard! Beautiful balmy day, calming sea soundtrack , all perfect.   

-and this mornings frog pose -


October 9, 2024

Farewell old friend


 And so we say goodbye to Leo .... here's a screen shot of the ceremony in Amsterdam (where some Esperazannaise can be spotted) and below, Toby and Jim giving their panegyrics. Several glasses were raised to his memory at Toutla last night.



Leo funeral link, probably.

https://pci-webcast.nl/wait 

If the link posted yesterday isn't effective, try this one - my techie skills are not getting any better. But either should work.

Needless to say, today is filled with thoughts of Leo.

October 7, 2024

Link to Leos funeral for Wednesday

 Toby has sent the info about Leos funeral. We are all invited to watch the streaming - and Toby says, if there's too much Dutch we can log out and log back in later!

Rose and Kat are en route to Amsterdam to be physically present and are already held up by the mist in Carcassonne.  Flight is followed by trains and buses so fingers crossed that the connections aren't too critical - its a long days travel anyway. 

Here's all you need for Weds at 2.30.... 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Tobys letter~~~~~~~~~~~~

If you want to join us during the ceremony just login using tinyurl.com/LvLierop 

The cremation ceremony takes place on Wednesday 9 October at 14.30hrs -15.30 hrs(European time). 
Most of the (5!) speeches will be in Dutch but I will mix in some english. And you may see yourselves in the pictures. 
(Anyway, if it is too long you can take a break).

Always remember that Leo loved you all and has had a great life in Esperaza.

Hope to see you all in Esperaza in 2025, xx Toby
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

October 6, 2024

Quillan for Saturday, Always Esperaza Sunday


One of the joys of being grown up and not absolutely flat broke yet, is the pleasure of eating out with friends. Barbara and Michael are so kind; they come and pick us up and we drive to a restaurant that we have carefully picked in advance. Then we can chatter in comfort and enjoy!



Last night was a return to La Galerie in Quillan, which (as any local foodie will tell you) is superb. 
Not going to waste superlatives; save up and go.



Todays market was packed as usual, not so many brits at this time of year but many foreign accents. Guessing Belgium, Danish, Dutch and so forth. And of course the locals... its a great pleasure, this weekly fest. Weather hot after the initial chill wore off. 


October 4, 2024

Moving evocations

 Went looking for fungi - don't ask - and in the course of my wandering discovered that the Evocation de Verdun had gone from its ancient spot under the panel on the new bridge, to a new location by the fountain. 

Mysterious! Why ? What will squat on its old plinth? -watch this space.







Steve, allelujia!!

 What with one thing and another, forgot snaps of last nights meal at Gert and  Elsebeths... shared with Roland and Kat and very nice too!!

However, I finally managed to remember to photograph Mr Steve Hall, denizen of these parts in the distant past. He and Iain (RIP) arrived here in the days of General Lafittes mayorship, which dates them; and they left erm about 15 years ago. We're all hazy.



Here he is at The Pont having lunch yesterday, remembering when that particular space was full of old broken things; one rarely ventured even inside the café by the bar. 

Such fun to catch up. Steve is still working hard in Edinburgh so unlikely to join us again soon. He leaves today. > sniff< 

October 2, 2024

Leo van Lierop RIP

 It is with the heaviest of hearts that l have to report Leos death.

Toby wrote yesterday: ' Leo died last night, peacefully asleep; no pain or anxiety. Just the way he wanted it. We are very sad  but also relieved he dosnt have to wait...'

Leo had Leukaemia and had been doing very well under treatment, when the treatment became ineffective and was withdrawn. It was a question then of pain management and time.

Here's a selection of tender memories....






He was big in our lives. 
Hugs to all, Toby his widow, Jim his step-son and his family.
Toby is arranging the funeral and there is a chance it will be streamed; link to follow. And more anon...