changes in the air

This mornings sky...very cryptic

 

yesterdays brunch, the best British breakfast Ive seen in France - available at la Ravito in Couiza, next to the bus stop, before 12.00 (when lunch sittings start.) Claudine and l were most taken with the place. Run by a charming English woman of these parts, good menu and not too pricey. Lots of space so very comfortable!

Below is brunch from the day before at our own extraordinary Relais Occitan  in the square - Louise and Norbert -

and Kathy and Kenny!!! Whom we expect to see a lot more of, now they've bought a splendid house here.

Bob and I await the imminent arrival of Richard and Lynne, Bobs brother Johns son and wife.  So Id better get cracking....

 

The good news....

... is that the wind has dropped. Sigh.

Everyone, foriegn and French, bored with this endlessly dreadful weather. Its supposed to lift this weekend according to the forecasters but I can't hear anyone holding their breath. 

Had a splendid night at the PMU with a deal of the tribe - not Bob, alas, he was too poorly to come out. Much friskier this morning! Wednesdays highlight of the week now. 
 

Artic Espe

I've been away in Carcassonne, getting two nice stents fitted in my poor old arteries... works a treat, love science and all the scientists involved in the process. And the staff and medicals at the hospital.

 Hugs all round.

Return home to artic conditions, the wind, rain and coldness awful though by the weekend it'll allegedly be gone and spring will reappear. The above view is a taster, a secret corner of Esperaza which is about to be transformed. Don't know when, nor do I know if its safe to write about it - watch this space! I'm terribly excited :)
 

on a day like today...

 ...we push off to the Mediterranean sea! Peter Dunn, blessings on him, drove me, Bob and Clare to St Pierre by Narbonne for lunch and thence to the beach at Gruissan, by the vintage chalets.

In season its unreasonable but at this time, cor - what luck!

monday... and diary dates

voila! Bruno, texting his sister whom we expect on Wednesday - hurrah -

I'm having another go at being stented on Weds but she's going to stay, if I'm spared we'll have the rest of the week to catch up.

And now: Robin is singing in all the events below and since he's no slouch we know they'll be good. Aiming for Limoux since its the nearest. Anyone else going with a car??

 

survivors lunch

A scratch lunch, consisting of  gifts (Reuben, thank you! Siggy, amazing!) and street food, all delicious and easy. Friends back from their travels, and Peter G awaiting the return of his lovely wife.

- we blessed the chemists and physicists and all doctors and surgeons and carers who have got us this far.

Market was sunny and like a grand garden party without the hats.

8a8 now express

First in line this morning... its bigger with lots of fridges, same stock with more of it. Regulars wandering about asking where things were, all highly entertaining.

It's a small village, these things matter!

The Captain is back just now, off to La Chapaire to eat. 

 

poulet au parking

Anyone who has been to Carrefour lately can't have failed to notice a cock and two hens, in fine fettle, pottering fearlessly around the car park. Long may they prosper.

Dear Bev kindly gave me a lift yesterday and we had a happy few hours in the sun, admiring all there was to see -

Today its the dentist for me. If you want to see Dr Botella you must sit outside his office and waylay him since his number is disconnected. His appointments book is packed so I guess many already know this trick... can't honestly say I'm looking forward to my rendezvous but it'll be nice to get it done. And to chat philosophy with him.

 

Morning shadows : yesterdays vote

 This mornings' curiosity... as the roof next door gets removed for repairs. Which means the weather will stay fine for a few days.

My brother Matt has gone home. Sniff.

Here is the chicken roaster in the market - lovely market on Sunday though terribly cold. Many mates dropped in; thanks, y'all!

You will know, of course, that yesterday was the day we voted for the mayor. (I say 'we' but we foreigner's aren't allowed; pay taxes, yes, vote no.) 

Tiny bit decorative though as there was no opposition, just the last mayor's team. I know several people who wanted to stand but couldn't because you have to have a team around you, ten men, ten women. Hard to arrange in a small and largely indifferent community.

Of the 1,375 citizens who were allowed to vote, 746 actually did and of them 25 posted white papers and 40 papers were annulled. We are not told why. It would be nice to see them displayed so we can be sure they are spoiled; make an interesting exhibition!

Funny old week

My brother Matt is here, looking strict - taking care of things while Bob away in blighty and me in hospital in Carcassonne. I was expecting stents but had a mouth/teeth infection so couldn't be done and I'm back in Esperaza,  have to go back to hospital when well enough. So you can visit then.

Matt and I had dinner at La Chapaire last night (gave him a break from cooking, which he does v well) That was fun; fairly crowded but still well-run. I had a tiny glass of wine, the first in a long time, and this morning I feel like an old stoner.

My time in the hospital acted as an (un)dress rehearsal and I am now competent to address the many issues of Bon pour Transport, lost mutuelle evidence, lost carte de sejour (photo good enough for customs to and from Engerland, not for the hospital-) The handiest hint I can offer anyone going in is to get a Samu - that's the taxi/ambulance lot here - who has a gentle and kindly driver, who will guide you through all the processes and deliver you to the right ward. Mine was called Roman, blessings on him - and indeed to the many friends and contacts who aided and abetted especially Marc Antoine.

Many plusses because of this experience. My French is a lot better and my lovely room mate Huguette (aged 90, button bright) complemented me on it :) The nurses liked my hair, which Id been thinking of cutting and now won't. 

 

not a war zone

 Here is Esperaza's 8 a 8 being gutted, extended, re-powered, re-built - dreadful impact on the village and especially me! No-one to chatter to on the croissant run, except the other lost souls bewailing its absence.

We just have to cope, sigh.

In the meantime Siggy has offered lifts to Intermarche to anyone carless, she visits most days and is happy to run people there. Cheers!

We saw Siggy and her daughter Laura last night when we ate together at La Chapaire; and before that had a visit from Regina who has been released into the wild after her heart attack. Given her youth and fitness, this was a shocking event for us all and no doubt for Regina too. But she's recovering :) Allelujia.

Hols by the sea

 Bob and I had a touch of cabin fever and decided to quell our restlessness with a 2 bus trip to Collioure. Roped in the neighbours to take on parrot care and took off early Monday. The Perpignan bus leaves from Quillan at 8.20am and we were on it - to RDV at the Centre of the World with the Collioure bus and arrive in time for lunch.

In sight of the sea.

I'd booked us into the little hotel of the Templars, the one covered in original and exciting paintings from the turn of the last century to the 1960's, and loved it. 

Of course, it was out of season so all the staff everywhere were cheery and happy to chatter. Recommend avoiding summer, its hell there; just ask the staff!

We ate massively and pottered gently, early nighted -

- and first thing in the morning went back to the  beach, thinking we'd be alone, to find a large and growing reception.

Faces painted in camouflage, some running about with guns (hopefully unreal ones), lots of very fit young persons clearly training for the onerous task of protection.

That and the changing weather made it easier to come home - 10.30 bus after hotel breakfast in their lovely bar (more paintings) which got us to Perpignan with 10 mins to spare for the Quillan bus. These trips incidentally now cost 2 euros each. 

-----Mustn't moan about price increases, its still fabulous value. 

Now back. Parrots sulking.

LIfe goes on...

...in a time of war, we are concerned but helpless. Got ideas though! And shared many of them last night with John and Margaret, Gert and Elsbeth. As ever, enjoyed their company hugely. 

 

Art resurgence

 Hadn't planned to go to last nights' vernissage since it was in Quillan and I don't drive, but a last minute offer revolutionised my thinking...

An American artist called Dave has opened the old boulangerie as a gallery and studio - not sure if it has a name yet - and he exhibited a handful works by his students. I'd forgotten how much fun a group of artists could be :) 

Dave put on a very good spread with lashings of blanquette. He has interesting plans for the gallery, involving trying to establish an art audience to appreciate the many artists of these parts. Life drawing is a pivotal part of his plans; drop in on him at 6, Rue de la mairie for all info. if you fancy it.

Esperaza news on Thursday

 Our neighbour Michell is here for a week from the Cote d'azure, bearing oranges and lemons from his orchard in Menton...

Also arrived are Margaret and John - in fine fettle - and Gert and Elsbeth, not yet spotted but here somewhere. You can tell its spring :)

The bad news is that the 8a8 will be closing for three weeks from Sunday. It's being made bigger and smarter and though I keep telling them its alright as it is, they will insist on change. Bah.

If you are one of the many who have their parcels delivered there, you'll have to go to Couiza - ring 0468 74 09 10 for info. 

RIP Frank Dunnett. d.20 02 2026

Frank left Esperaza with his (then) wife Liz in 2019, deaf to our pleas to get them to stay- 

they were a delight to be around and we shared many a meal, many an interesting conversation, many a merry evening.

Frank had the sweetest manners; we all know that Esperaza is the safest place one can imagine but he would insist on walking me home after many a riotous party. He and Liz were most kind to my appalling dog Lily too, knowing I was a vegetarian they'd keep bones for her. She adored Frank!

I visited them in the UK... here they are in Bexhill-on-Sea, where they'd relocated. Frank was a member of the yacht club and of course maintained his golf obsessions. He was well-known in Esperaza as the man who bought his wife a golf club he wanted for christmas. She didn't play.

Their divorce was a sadness but after 40-something years - and diverging interests - it arrived. 

Liz rang me today with the news of his passing and instructed me to let his old friends know.

                                                   All the best to her and to Franks family. 

 

Sun set last night

-not only beautiful but there were bats! Perhaps this endless winter has finally moved on. 
 

Early market

 Thick mist!! It'll be cleared, no doubt, when I go back for round #2 Below is Ruben, preparing our lunch. He's simultaneously hosting breakfast for the other stall holders, they take it in turns - wine, bread, cheese, pate. That's why they're always so cheerful :)

Day off in Carcassonne

 Most of France appears to be underwater which we've been spared. 

Again today, wind and rain.... so glad yesterday was sunny and hot because yesterday I bunked off with Rushton to the the Gallery of Contemporary Art in Carcassonne. We had a comfortable and ungormande lunch in the Place Gambeta and then tottered off to the show.

Here are the international artists showing a bit of work apiece, all of them new to me.

The work looked mostly familiar though, developing familiar themes... nice nonetheless.

One installation alone had an impact on me. By Yoann Ximenes and called Mantras, the artist had taken significant speeches from these times (and before), taken a copy of their soundwave patterns and translated that into hanging pieces, most ingeniously (layered circles of polystyrene), surprisingly beautiful.

 In case we missed the point, the actual speeches were broadcast in the gallery. Happy time trying to match speech to vision which made me suspect they were not an actual copy -  I've always been a pedant. Still worked as a sculpture and idea IMHO.

Speeches by Mandela, Churchill, Obama, de Gaulle,  Allende, Guevarra and the like - sound bites rather than speeches actually but enough -

Entry free, staff sweet, beautiful building (ex-monastery and old bank) Well worth a visit.

CENTER FOR CONTEMPORARY ART - Office de tourisme de Carcassonne

PS just had a visit from a neighbour who has a friend who is having a vide maison, since his ma has gone into the maison de retrait. Forgot my camera! If you are yours are looking for good solid French furniture or any number of dinner services, lamps and so forth, you could do worse that contact Tim who is managing it for the family. Message Timothy Price on Fb.

consolations of a wet sunday

Not a lot of stalls in the market, what with impending rain and a bit of wind - hardly a patch on what we had been led to expect - Rushton and I had arranged to meet and were joined by Louise and Pete, below, and then Norbert... Nel is in recovery from her last treatment but doing fine.

Got home, where Pete was entertaining Bob... and offering a blessing :)

Water level of river down from yesterday and though the sky is grey, urgh, all is manageable. 

 

The rising Aude

 

Despite the flood alerts, the mighty Aude is only teasing...

Rain is forecast for the next WEEK! 

But as international world-famous traveller Max Johnson has been heard to remark, there is no such thing as bad weather - only inappropriate clothing. Dig out those wellies.

Forgot to photograph Thursday night which was brill, starting at the café du Pont  and evolving to La Chapaire where some of us had chicken in chestnut cream sauce, fantastic! What will they think of next. 

Discovered that the new tea and plant shop in Rue Gambetta (opposite the temporally defunct tout-la) does amazing cake, BTW. Recommended.

Erm... that's it. Enjoy the quiet.

esperaza red alert

 Poor old Heron having a hard time this morning - fast flowing water and a fierce wind, which blew it backwards when s/he tried to cross the river.

Apart from that... no trains between Carcassonne and Limoux until the fallen trees have been cleared (I daresay they'll be running buses...)

We're still on the reddest of alerts, which means all the emergency services are paying attention.

-erm, the sun has just come out!

attention weather...

Us locals have all been sent a weather alert from the town hall.. stay in, close shutters, don't leave cars by the river or under trees. Stay prudent. 

Its only spotting with rain now and seems quite pleasant but no doubt the fan will be hit soon. 

Took this snap this morning, showing that the river had a way to go before it breaks the bank.

Apart from that, the plane trees opposite the cafe du Pont are having a radical trim.